# Feeding Raw and Vension



## Jenny Bond

Hi everyone,

My name is Jenny and I currently have three dogs. I have two German Shorthaired Pointers, one 6 years old and the other 7 months. I also have one Belgian Malinois who is 6 years old and will be getting an 8 week old Malinois in December. I would love to feed my dogs a raw diet and have tossed the idea around for years but have never done so. However, I'm hoping to make this transition soon. I have a few questions pertaining to it and hope you guys can help.

What is the best way to switch them over, they are all on a high quality kibble right now?

For those who have fed raw about how much do you feed to your dogs? My 6 year old Pointer is 65pds and highly active, it has always been hard to put weight on him. My 7 month old Pointer is currently 38pds and highly active. My 6 year old Malinois is 45pds and active. My new puppy will more than likely be between 70-90pds (weight of parents) full grown. I was researching K9 Kraving and they said I would have to feed a 90 pd dog 4 pds of raw food a day? Thoughts?

The thing that has always held me back has been cost. And feeding the four dogs would be expensive. I am looking at supplementing their diet with wildlife that my husband hunts. He hunts deer, quail, pheasant, turkey, hog, etc. He also fishes. Do any of you do this and what are your thoughts? The meat would all be meat that we ourselves would eat. Are all parts good for them (heart, lungs, liver, etc)? What about fish, are all fish good for them and what parts? 

We would be ordering (hopefully) over 1000pds of meat at a time, does any one else bulk order like this and how much freezer space does it take? We have one stand up freezer. 

Finally does anybody else have ideas on how to get cheap meat or bring the cost of feeding raw down?

Thank you in advance for the advice!

Jenny Bond


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## Matt Vandart

I have fed raw in the past, my bull terriers are on it now. It's not as bad/complicated as one thinks.
In the UK it's actually cheaper to feed raw.
My dogs will have a rabbit now and again when I take them coursing, but they get a whole chicken fairly regularly and my oldest boy breeds them, lol (feathers an all) also by rabbit I mean the whole rabbit. The fur wraps up the bones and stops it puncturing anything.
Dunno if this is any use to u


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## Meg O'Donovan

What is the best way to switch them over, they are all on a high quality kibble right now?
*My dogs' guts are pretty sturdy, so once the fresh meat arrives, I just start feeding it. For the first day or two, they have more gas, and get looser stools, depending on how much fat is ground in with the muscle meat, but they also have the bones that they eat and swallow, and this counter acts the loose aspect. 
I wouldn't do such a radical switch if I had to take them anywhere where they would be kenneled or kept in the car for hours during the changeover. I try to pick a few days where they can easily have more bathroom breaks than they would need with kibble. I also feed yogurt with probiotics and kefir at this time, thinking it enhances the gut bacteria they'll need to digest the raw.*

For those who have fed raw about how much do you feed to your dogs? My 6 year old Pointer is 65pds and highly active, it has always been hard to put weight on him. My 7 month old Pointer is currently 38pds and highly active. My 6 year old Malinois is 45pds and active. My new puppy will more than likely be between 70-90pds (weight of parents) full grown. I was researching K9 Kraving and they said I would have to feed a 90 pd dog 4 pds of raw food a day? Thoughts?
*I feed my dog (60-65 lb. Mal) a big breakfast of ground raw, at least two lbs. During the day she has access to meaty bones, both the kind she can chew and swallow (e.g. backs, necks) and the kind she just gnaws at to get marrow, tendons, tissue (she enjoys this gnawing). If the dog seems hungry, in late afternoon, I will give her more raw, as much as she wants. She hasn't gotten fat. When I feed raw, I don't feed kibble at all. 
I feed raw while hunting season lasts because I have a good source (ground raw and all the bones I want for .50/lb) from a meatcutter. When hunting season ends, I go back to Arcana or Pulsar salmon kibble, for price and convenience reasons. The raw feeding season lasts from Sept. to March, which helps to put weight and muscle on my dog before the winter cold. Keep in mind that raw digests much faster than kibble.
*
The thing that has always held me back has been cost. And feeding the four dogs would be expensive. I am looking at supplementing their diet with wildlife that my husband hunts. He hunts deer, quail, pheasant, turkey, hog, etc. He also fishes. Do any of you do this and what are your thoughts? The meat would all be meat that we ourselves would eat. Are all parts good for them (heart, lungs, liver, etc)? What about fish, are all fish good for them and what parts? 
I would feed any part of the game, as long as it doesn't have any of those brain wasting diseases (check with your local game warden). My dogs love the hooves, antlers, guts when they can get them.
*Do a search re: fish because apparently some fish are harmful if fed raw. *

We would be ordering (hopefully) over 1000pds of meat at a time, does any one else bulk order like this and how much freezer space does it take? We have one stand up freezer. 
*I don't have freezer space, so I just keep it in a cold shed and feed it out and then get more. I don't store more than a box or two at a time, as the meatcutter is local.
*
Finally does anybody else have ideas on how to get cheap meat or bring the cost of feeding raw down? *Make friends with a meatcutter. Make friends with the people who clean up roadkill (gross but true). Make friends with farmers who keep livestock and have animals that die by misadventure (but not by disease or mystery causes). *


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## Anne Jones

I have been feeding a homemade raw diet for over 10 years. I don't have hunters that I know to get food from...but this is what I do......

Look into wholesale restaurant suppliers. I have been purchasing most of my 'dog food' from one, about an hour away from me, for almost 8 years. I get 40# cases of fresh chicken backs, chicken leg Qtrs, pork necks, chicken necks, turkey necks, duck necks chicken gizzards, beef heart etc. Also 10# rolls of ground turkey, beef, pork, lamb etc.

My guy has been selling to the raw feeding community for years. (He feeds his own dogs raw) Some may require a business license to purchase there. Mine doesn't, although I do have a state licensed business.

I also occasionally pick up some buffalo & goat from a local market...just to add more variety.

I don't feed venison, as it's not regularly available to me. But occasionally a friend will give me some for my dogs.

Cases of chicken necks & backs are $14, cases of chicken leg Qtrs are $18 ....ground turkey is $.95 lb...etc. These are the prices I paid a few weeks ago at my last trip. I get all fresh food. I don't get frozen....as I package it up & freeze it in several meal packages & freeze it. 

I have an upright freezer that supposedly holds 725 lbs of food & an additional refrigerator in the garage also that I use that freezer for dog food. All but 1 shelf in the big freezer is dedicated to dog food. If you are going to purchase huge quantities of food...I would suggest a chest freezer...you will be able to stuff much more in that then an upright.

I usually get about 200#s of meat at a time. I usually go about every 3 months or so. A 3 - 3 1/2 month supply of food for my dogs is $90- $100 depending on what I get. I have 2 working line GSDs...my female is 65#s & my male is 78#s.

Call around to the suppliers...to see if you can find one that will sell to you....even if it a couple of hours away. If you are only going every 2-3 months....the 2 hour or so drive is not that big a deal. My other thought is that you may be able to convince a restaurant to purchase for you & buy the cases from them...if you don't find a supplier that will sell directly to you.

Also look into the Yahoo Raw Feeder site...the folks there will be able to give you some local info on suppliers. You can also team up with several other raw feeders & buy in great quantity that my convince a supplier to sell to you with huge orders for a number of people together.

You might look into purchase fresh/frozen cases of sardines or mackerel to feed. I just don't have the freezer space & feed canned fish.

Hope this helps.


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## Ben Thompson

Jenny Bond said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> My name is Jenny and I currently have three dogs. I have two German Shorthaired Pointers, one 6 years old and the other 7 months. I also have one Belgian Malinois who is 6 years old and will be getting an 8 week old Malinois in December. I would love to feed my dogs a raw diet and have tossed the idea around for years but have never done so. However, I'm hoping to make this transition soon. I have a few questions pertaining to it and hope you guys can help.
> 
> What is the best way to switch them over, they are all on a high quality kibble right now?
> 
> For those who have fed raw about how much do you feed to your dogs? My 6 year old Pointer is 65pds and highly active, it has always been hard to put weight on him. My 7 month old Pointer is currently 38pds and highly active. My 6 year old Malinois is 45pds and active. My new puppy will more than likely be between 70-90pds (weight of parents) full grown. I was researching K9 Kraving and they said I would have to feed a 90 pd dog 4 pds of raw food a day? Thoughts?
> 
> The thing that has always held me back has been cost. And feeding the four dogs would be expensive. I am looking at supplementing their diet with wildlife that my husband hunts. He hunts deer, quail, pheasant, turkey, hog, etc. He also fishes. Do any of you do this and what are your thoughts? The meat would all be meat that we ourselves would eat. Are all parts good for them (heart, lungs, liver, etc)? What about fish, are all fish good for them and what parts?
> 
> We would be ordering (hopefully) over 1000pds of meat at a time, does any one else bulk order like this and how much freezer space does it take? We have one stand up freezer.
> 
> Finally does anybody else have ideas on how to get cheap meat or bring the cost of feeding raw down?
> 
> Thank you in advance for the advice!
> 
> 
> Jenny Bond


THere are books on raw you should probably get one to refer to as a guide. Fish can have small bones I feed canned salmon and sardines here and there and have not had issues. I feed alot of beef and chicken and for plant part of their diet I mix a cup water with one apple 1 sqaush like zucchini and maybe half a bunch of kale. Blend it all together and give a portion to his meal it lasts about 5 days. 

I also use raw apple cider vinegar, coconut oil, and olive oil. Only a tablespoon and I alternate them all. 

I don't see the point of feeding buffallo or yak or pink flamingos etc. I just feed what is commonly available and affordable.


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## Ben Thompson

Here is the book Connie told me to use its a good one for starting your dogs out on raw. http://leerburg.com/970.htm


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## James Downey

When I switch a dog, I just switch. 

As for price. Sometimes Ethnic grocery stores can be cheaper for meat sometimes. I talk to local small butcher shops. I ask them to keep scraps and freeze em. I pick them up once a week. Some butchers I get trimmings for .15 a pound, some .50. But for the most part. There is a point with RAW where it's not going to be as cheap as kibble. There's a reason kibble can be sold so cheap. Simply because it's full of cheap crap. 

As for amount. I have a 70 lbs female mal. a 60 lbs male mal. a 110 mastiff, and a puppy pit bull. I feed the Female a pound a day. The male gets 2 lbs a day, and the 110 mastiff gets 2 lbs a day. I have seen an 80 lbs male eat 5 lbs a day and still be skinny. It depends on the dog. I have found that the variation to how much dogs eat is crazy. There's no way to know without watching the dog. But what I do is 2% of their body weight to start, and then adjust from there. 

I have the biggest chest freezer you can buy from a big box store and it fits about 400 lbs. 

As for what they can eat, I will feed any part of an animal unless it hold waste like a bladder or the large intestine. 

As for Venison. In MI. I had a deal with a local butcher he sold me the trimmings for .50 a pound. I took everything except heads and waste holding organs. I would get 500 lbs. It would fill every bit of freezer space I had. and it would last months. It is dogs favorite food.

Also there a local co-ops try to get hooked up with one of those. You can get food cheap. 

But it's not impossible to feed raw for a 1.00 a lbs. by shopping a grocery store.


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## Bob Scott

Jenny
Please post your bio in the Member Bio's forum here. It's a WDF requirement.
http://www.workingdogforum.com/vBulletin/f20/


Thanks
WDF Moderators


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## Anne Jones

Ben, the more variety you feed the better. You cover nutritional needs far better with feeding a variety of foods than you do with such a limited diet like you feed.

I would be sure to supplement with a good vitamin etc if that is as good as your diet for you dogs' gets.

Green tripe is also a great source of nutrients for you dog in addition to other vegetables.


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## Ben Thompson

Anne Jones said:


> Ben, the more variety you feed the better. You cover nutritional needs far better with feeding a variety of foods than you do with such a limited diet like you feed.
> 
> I would be sure to supplement with a good vitamin etc if that is as good as your diet for you dogs' gets.
> 
> Green tripe is also a great source of nutrients for you dog in addition to other vegetables.


I do not believe grain fed bison is any better then grain fed beef.


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## Robbie Waldrop

Jenny, there is no transition for switching, just do it. I found a raw dealer on the east coast that sells it for $50 for 30#'s. That's pretty cheap when it comes to raw. 

I feed 1 pound in the morning and depending on the activity of the dog usually a pound to pound and a half At night. Once you get started, you will figure out the amounts that maintain your desired weights for the dogs.

Most people on here give really good information so take it all in and good luck with your transition to the raw.


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## Connie Sutherland

Ben Thompson said:


> I do not believe grain fed bison is any better then grain fed beef.


Neither do I. But I didn't see anyone suggesting it. 


Green tripe would be a great addition. Or just a little more variety in the produce will cover more vitamins and trace minerals.

_"I mix a cup water with one apple 1 sqaush like zucchini and maybe half a bunch of kale"_ is good, and good for you that you are providing nutrient-rich produce, but a bit more variety will provide more vits/trace mins.


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## Catherine Gervin

i would only say that this is in respect to human consumption of Bison vs Beef, but Bison do not need the antibiotics/vaccines/chemical additives that beef cattle do, and that maybe this would appeal?
it is MUCH leaner than feedlot cattle tend to yield so maybe that is a bad thing?


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## Jenny Bond

Thank you everyone for the information. I definitely have a lot of reading to do. Have any of you heard of having to feed a dog 4 pounds a day to keep weight on? From what I've read most people don't feed nearly that much.

Jenny Bond


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## Connie Sutherland

4 pounds of what? A regular balanced raw diet? 

For what size dog? 

Adult, or growing?

I can picture 4 pounds of a balanced raw diet that's based on RMBs. Say you had an active 125-pound adult. Or say you had a puppy, still growing pretty fast but already at 60 pounds.

Either of those could be in the 4-pound range, give or take.


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## susan tuck

Jenny Bond said:


> I am looking at supplementing their diet with wildlife that my husband hunts. He hunts deer, quail, pheasant, turkey, hog, etc. He also fishes. Do any of you do this and what are your thoughts? The meat would all be meat that we ourselves would eat. Are all parts good for them (heart, lungs, liver, etc)? What about fish, are all fish good for them and what parts?
> 
> Jenny Bond


Hi Jenny:
I feed wild venison, as a matter of fact, my neighbor just called me about an hour ago, because he shot a buck and wanted to know what I wanted off of it for my dogs, of course I want everything he doesn't want, it's all good. 

The only thing is, I wouldn't feed raw venison if I lived in an area where deer were known to carry CWD:

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/animal_diseases/cwd/

http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/eid/article/10/6/03-1082_article.htm


Regarding fish, I wouldn't feed any pacific salmonids raw, since they can carry a parasite that's potentially fatal to dogs, but I do feed raw whole fish, especially wild caught Calif sardines (each sardine's about 1/4 pound). 

http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/cliented/salmon.aspx

As far as how much I feed, I don't weigh it anymore, some stuff is fattier and some stuff is bonier, so it really depends on what I'm feeding, I just go by how my dogs look, their energy levels. I feed twice a day.


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## Connie Sutherland

Jenny Bond said:


> Thank you everyone for the information. I definitely have a lot of reading to do. Have any of you heard of having to feed a dog 4 pounds a day to keep weight on? From what I've read most people don't feed nearly that much.
> 
> Jenny Bond



The amount the adult dog needs is based pretty much on the dog's weight, then some modifications for activity level and the individual dog's metabolism (which can actually change the amount needed by one dog as opposed to another of the same weight and age by 15% -- or even up to 20%). 

In fact, the amount a growing puppy needs is similarly based on dog-weight +/- those same factors, but at a different (higher) percentage because of the calories used in growing.


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## James Downey

Jenny Bond said:


> Thank you everyone for the information. I definitely have a lot of reading to do. Have any of you heard of having to feed a dog 4 pounds a day to keep weight on? From what I've read most people don't feed nearly that much.
> 
> Jenny Bond


I know a 85lbs Malinois that ate 5 lbs a day. But that is a pretty extreme metabolism.


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## Gillian Schuler

Matt Vandart said:


> I have fed raw in the past, my bull terriers are on it now. It's not as bad/complicated as one thinks.
> In the UK it's actually cheaper to feed raw.
> My dogs will have a rabbit now and again when I take them coursing, but they get a whole chicken fairly regularly and my oldest boy breeds them, lol (feathers an all) also by rabbit I mean the whole rabbit. The fur wraps up the bones and stops it puncturing anything.
> Dunno if this is any use to u


My Dad had Greyhounds and he used to go coursing with them. They were not like today's Greyhounds. Dad could leave one in a hut lying on his overcoat and nobody could take it away.

Dad was also a Speedway Rider at White City Manchester, UK.


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## Jenny Bond

I was talking about 4 pounds of a raw balanced diet. I have a almost 6 year old German Shorthaired Pointer who is really active and I've always had a hard time keeping weight on him. Up until he was 2.5 years old he ate 8 cups of a high quality kibble and you could still see every bone in his body. I will also be getting a Mal pup who will probably be in the 75-90 pound range based on his parents. So I was just wondering if the recommend 4 pounds (according to K9 Kraving) is what I will really need to budget for. The breeder of the pups doesn't feed nearly that much to his dogs and they aren't looking thin.


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## Connie Sutherland

Jenny Bond said:


> I was talking about 4 pounds of a raw balanced diet. I have a almost 6 year old German Shorthaired Pointer who is really active and I've always had a hard time keeping weight on him. Up until he was 2.5 years old he ate 8 cups of a high quality kibble and you could still see every bone in his body. I will also be getting a Mal pup who will probably be in the 75-90 pound range based on his parents. So I was just wondering if the recommend 4 pounds (according to K9 Kraving) is what I will really need to budget for. The breeder of the pups doesn't feed nearly that much to his dogs and they aren't looking thin.


You didn't mention the weight or age of the dog eating 4 pounds a day. 


When the Mal is finished growing and weighs 75 to 90 pounds, he will probably need in the range of 1.5 to 2.70 pounds of a balanced raw diet (the first being the low end for a 75-pound adult and the second being the high end for a 90-pound adult).

Caveat: I am NOT talking about a commercial raw diet that may use calcium supplements rather than bones, or a dehydrated diet with RMB add-ins, or anything else ... just a regular, RMB-based, raw diet, with a third to a half of the diet being RMBs (such as backs or quarters). Nothing wrong with either of those others, but the amount fed would be different.





Your cost is going to be pretty much a function of the per-pound costs you find for both the RMBs and the added muscle meat. These per-pound costs will drive the diet's cost. The size of the dog(s) will determine (roughly) the amount needed, but nothing else affects the cost as much as the per-pound costs of your two main ingredients.

Anne mentioned some ways to find a lower per-pound cost.


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## Jenny Bond

Connie,

I don't have a dog eating raw right now. I was looking at ordering the food from K9 Kraving and supplementing it with some food my husband kills or catches. When I was on K9 Kraving's website they recommend 4 pds of their food a day for a dog between 60-90 pounds. 

I saw the recommendations from Connie and will certainly be using them to lower the cost. I wanted to get something from K9 Kraving or the like as they add in the necessary nutrients and since I'm so new at this I want to make sure they are getting everything they need. Especially my two puppies.


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## Connie Sutherland

The estimated amounts I mentioned for feeding adults refer only to a home-prepared raw diet based on RMBs, as I noted.

I don't know K9 Kraving's commercial diet, but their suggested amounts are going to be far more accurate than any estimate based on a different preparation.

Plant protein and plant fiber, often a significant part of a commercial food, make estimates based on a home-prepared raw diet non-applicable.

So again, don't rely on those estimates for anything but a home-prepared raw diet based on RMBs.



BTW, I agree with your plan to use a commercial balanced ALS diet for growing puppies when you're a new raw feeder. I don't think a growing puppy is the best dog to learn raw feeding on. We've seen right here on this board a few tragically unbalanced diets fed to growing puppies with very bad results (such as a puppy whose owner learned how bad the self-designed diet was only when the puppy started fracturing bones in normal play).

The raw diet isn't very difficult, but it's far less forgiving and has far less wiggle-room with puppies.


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## Connie Sutherland

_"I saw the recommendations ... and will certainly be using them to lower the cost. I wanted to get something from K9 Kraving or the like as they add in the necessary nutrients and since I'm so new at this I want to make sure they are getting everything they need. Especially my two puppies."_

If you're using a commercially balanced food, please be careful NOT to unbalance it with any added meat or RMBs. This can be done, but it can also screw up the commercial diet if done wrong (such as by adding a bunch of bone or a bunch of boneless meat).

Yes, you can lower the cost with a partially home-prepared diet, but that part too, unless it's very small, also has to be balanced.


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## rick smith

i want to throw out a suggestion here for those who are going to switch to raw or start a dog on raw, etc.

how about getting a comprehensive "wellness" physical first ?
complete blood panel, urine, fecal, UT, Xrays, and ???

a few disclaimers :
1. i know there is a cost factor involved here, but i feel it's relative to how much you care about your dog
2. i also have never seen a standardized "wellness" physical either, nor has a vet ever posted one on here when i have asked what such a physical would consist of in order to monitor a raw fed dog
3. but i do think it would have some value as a baseline for future reference that would be more valid than just "dog did wonderful (or horrible) when i switched to raw"


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## Jenny Bond

Rick, that sounds like a good idea. I've heard so many good things about raw feeding but all have been narrative. Has anybody seen research on numbers and tests and how a dog does after switching.


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## Connie Sutherland

But what tests would they be?


As for standard wellness physicals, with the suggested list of "complete blood panel, urine, fecal, and X-rays" .... my dogs have these tests pretty regularly. Nothing in them correlates directly with nutrition details, though.

My dogs are raw-fed, and they're healthy -- as far those tests can say.

(BTW, one blood test panel does need slight adjusting for raw-fed dogs [we've talked here about the somewhat different average in the BUN and creatinine numbers].)



If you mean something like advanced nutritional testing that would directly measure such nutrient elements as potassium, magnesium, zinc, copper, selenium, etc. .... this would be wildly expensive. This would be very unlikely testing to do even on, say, human athletes.


What I'm saying is that the usual well-dog checkup would indicate general health (or areas of concern), but not as a direct function of nutrition (except for a couple of tests that would pick up on something grossly wrong, like serum calcium, say, or lipid levels, that are way off).

But it would be the same with a kibble-fed well-dog checkup.

Same with a human child's well-baby checkups.




So while I get what you're saying, I guess I can't think of any feasible tests that could say (for a dog on any kind of food, raw included), except as a factor assumed from the results, "this dog is in good _nutritional_ shape."


I'm not a health professional, though.


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## Connie Sutherland

I wanted to mention that such gross problems as diet-triggered hypercalcemia secondary to Vitamin D toxicity (such as with dogs on a certain recipe of Blue Buffalo Wilderness Diet in 2010 -- the final answer was never clear, though) would indeed be picked up on the usual well-dog tests.

The dogs on Blue Buffalo Wilderness Diet, chicken flavor, who were found to have this condition, though, mostly were tested because of observable symptoms of polydipsia and polyuria (excessive drinking and peeing).

That hypercalcemia would have shown up on regular bloodwork. But by the time bloodwork was done in the normal course of events, the time to fix the problem (switch foods) probably would have been long past. That is, the _result _of a gross nutrition problem would usually show up first ... bloodwork would then confirm it.


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## Sarah Platts

Jenny Bond said:


> We would be ordering (hopefully) over 1000pds of meat at a time, does any one else bulk order like this and how much freezer space does it take? We have one stand up freezer.
> 
> Jenny Bond


In addition to your stand-up freezer, get at least 1 chest freezer 24 cubic ft or larger. Two would be even better. You will never have totally empty freezers so you need more room then you think to allow room for the carry over plus the new load. Chest freezers are better than stand-ups because you can pack them full to the top. I would use the stand-up for daily use and the chest for long term storage.


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## Sarah Platts

Also if the meat you are putting in is not already frozen then you will have to add it in layers between all the freezers so that it will freeze at a fairly fast rate and be solid before adding the next layer. Better yet, is to be on really good terms with the local slaughterhouse and see if they would mind freezing it for you ( for a small fee, of course).


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## Jenny Bond

Sarah,

What do you mean by layers in the freezer?

Jenny


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## Sarah Platts

Jenny Bond said:


> Sarah,
> 
> What do you mean by layers in the freezer?
> 
> Jenny


If the meat you are loading in is not frozen then you need to spread it out in a layer one or two packages deep across the whole freezer so that it will get frozen faster. If you pack 100 lbs of unfrozen meat into a freezer it could take one or more days for the entire 100lbs of meat to freeze solid since the cold has to work it's way in to the center of the 100lb mass and this takes more time than people realize. By spreading the packages out in a thin layer they will freeze faster and reduce the risk of the meat souring in the interium.

If you buy 1000lbs of unfrozen meat (a 24 cubic foot chest freezer is estimated to hold 700-800lbs) it would take a week or more for that entire biomass to freeze to safe levels.

If you ever get a chance to watch a slaughterhouse in action, the packaged meat is laid out on in a single layer on trays to get it frozen as fast as possible. Once frozen they pack it into boxes for the customer to take home.


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## Jenny Bond

Ahh, thanks for explaining that. I will definitely have to keep this in mind and make sure I do it in layers.


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