# Heat Fatigue



## Lyn Chen (Jun 19, 2006)

My GSD easily gets tired when we train during the past few days now that it's really warm. Maybe 5-10 minutes he's pooped. I keep waiting for cloudy days but they never come when I want them. :evil: Any suggestions to condition a dog or to help him through the summer months?


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## Sarah Hall (Apr 12, 2006)

I would buy a cheap plastic kid's swimming pool and have the dog take breaks in it. Make sure the dog's belly and chest get wet, it's also good to try to get betweeen the rear legs wet if you can. Otherwise, just take some good breaks in a cool car or inside, offer nice cool water (I'll stick ice cubes in it on really hot days) and deal as best as you can.
All of this, of course, is after the dog has been cleared of any fatigue-causing illnesses.


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## Lyn Chen (Jun 19, 2006)

Well, I haven't gone to the vet yet, but it never really crossed my mind because he's okay when it's raining or cloudy. The ice cubes seem like a good idea--perhaps I could bring some along when we train. Right now all I'm doing is letting him take some sips from the water fountain. (Hope no one sees us though.  )


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Sarah Hall said:


> I would buy a cheap plastic kid's swimming pool and have the dog take breaks in it. Make sure the dog's belly and chest get wet, it's also good to try to get betweeen the rear legs wet if you can. Otherwise, just take some good breaks in a cool car or inside, offer nice cool water (I'll stick ice cubes in it on really hot days) and deal as best as you can.
> All of this, of course, is after the dog has been cleared of any fatigue-causing illnesses.


And you want ONLY the parts of the dog where the blood vessels are exposed to the water (so to speak) to get wet. So the face, groin, belly, etc., but NOT the furry sides and back.

I learned this from Bob Scott and others (about soaked fur holding heat in and making it worse), and now Leo's and Pomfret's clubs have pools with water levels appropriate for the size of the dogs. The little dogs' pool has only enough water to soak them paw-to-belly, and ditto the higher big-dog pool.

Huge step we took at the club: reflecting awnings for the shaded part. I couldn't believe the difference between the old green canvas ones and the new reflecting ones.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Connie Sutherland said:


> Sarah Hall said:
> 
> 
> > I would buy a cheap plastic kid's swimming pool and have the dog take breaks in it. Make sure the dog's belly and chest get wet, it's also good to try to get betweeen the rear legs wet if you can. Otherwise, just take some good breaks in a cool car or inside, offer nice cool water (I'll stick ice cubes in it on really hot days) and deal as best as you can.
> ...


When the coat is wet, it no longer acts as insulation from the heat. The water will then transfer the heat directly to the dogs skin.


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## David Frost (Mar 29, 2006)

Since starting my current drug class Monday the 19th, the weather has been unseasonably hot, even for the south. I make the handler carry an ice chest to the training areas with us, just in case. It's a good thing too, Wednesday, I had one dog nearly go into convulsions because of heat. We do work them hard. I noticed the dog's gait becoming rather unstable and told the handler to start applying ice. We do apply to the "armpits" well I guess actually they are leg pits, and then place the dog in the car. She was fine during training Thursday, I just watched them a little closer.

DFrost


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

David Frost said:


> Since starting my current drug class Monday the 19th, the weather has been unseasonably hot, even for the south. I make the handler carry an ice chest to the training areas with us, just in case. It's a good thing too, Wednesday, I had one dog nearly go into convulsions because of heat. We do work them hard. I noticed the dog's gait becoming rather unstable and told the handler to start applying ice. We do apply to the "armpits" well I guess actually they are leg pits, and then place the dog in the car. She was fine during training Thursday, I just watched them a little closer.
> 
> DFrost


Oh, right, the armpits are definitely a spot where the blood vessels are very close to the surface. Good spot.

Last week in NY people at the training demo I attended were discussing the subject. I hadn't really realized, prior to that, how the face is a good blood-vessels-close-to-the-surface spot too.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Without ice, alcohol wipes frm a first aid kit work well for bringing down the dogs belly heat.


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

You can also purchase a mat that goes in the crate. You wet it and what ever is inside of it makes it stay cool.


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## Andres Martin (May 19, 2006)

Lyn...you wrote that after 5 - 10 minutes your dog gets pooped. If your dog is in decent shape, that's way too soon.

How old is your dog? How in shape is he? How do you condition him? How does he spend his day?


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## Lyn Chen (Jun 19, 2006)

He's 10 months old. I might have overexagerrated a bit, I'm not exactly sure how long it takes for him to get tired, but for example earlier, we've only done maybe 4 dumbbell retrieves and some heel/drivework before he slowed down and started 'screwing up', so to speak. When it's raining we could easily go 20 minutes doing various things and by the end his recall would be lightning fast. I take him for a few miles walk each day after some obedience and then he spends 8-10 hours in the crate (includes nighttime), most of his time is spent in the house. He's of the proper weight, with the outer ribs showing, and is on a raw food diet.

Are there any other exercises we can do to help increase his stamina? I know for sure he's not in 'peak condition', but have no idea what else to do without overtiring him.


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

The best exercise is swimming. It's hot so lets get wet.


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Jerry Lyda said:


> The best exercise is swimming. It's hot so lets get wet.


Excellent suggestion!

One of my daughter's BTs joined me in her pool in Massachusetts. So I'll go so far as to say "The best exercise is swimming -- dogs and people together!" :lol: :lol:


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## Michele Moore (Mar 27, 2006)

Another +1 for the swimming suggestion. I like to take my dogs to the lake in the summer. Even my dog that doesn't care for swimming likes to retrieve out of the lake.


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## Nancy Jocoy (Apr 19, 2006)

Swimming is great but I have seen dogs get too hot even swimming 

I carry a cooler with the following in it just for heat but have not needed it too much - better safe than sorry It has:

Gel packs
Washcloths soaked in water and frozen in plastic bags (I love these!)
Ice water and a small mister in which I keep ice water - you can find it at garden shops - it is like a mini pressure sprayer. 

After training mine get a long cooling spray between the back legs with an open spray pattern - in between a mist and a stream (I would not apply ice water directly to skin)

Also don't understimate moving air. Mine have both been fine in a vehcile that was 90-95 (that was the air temp, not like the car was adding) with fans on high -- crates are open wire - I am using the 02Coool fan hooked up to a 12 volt deep cycle battery just for the dogs (It moves a LOT more air than those chinszy 12volt car fans or those battery dog fans)


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## Konnie Hein (Jun 14, 2006)

We (the people I train SAR with) have found that intense _conditioning _is a must to prevent heat exhaustion.

In my experience, dogs who are put through a regular conditioning regimen are far less likely to suffer from the heat and also recover faster from training in the heat.

If you do a google search for canine heat exhaustion, you'll find a few articles from the hunting dog web sites that adress the importance of conditioning and also offer suggestions on a conditioning regimen.

http://www.gundogsonline.com/Article/keeping-your-dog-cool-Page1.htm


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## Nancy Jocoy (Apr 19, 2006)

.......and there are several threads on the board on heat tolerance / conditioning.

As well as diet and heat tolerance.

what you don't want to hear is that if your dog is in the A/C all day and taken out to work in the heat .... that is harder on them than if they are in the environment in which they will be worked.

My compromise (when I can keep my family away from the thermostat) is to jack it up as high as I can tolerate (usually around 80) ...


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## Konnie Hein (Jun 14, 2006)

QUOTE NANCY:what you don't want to hear is that if your dog is in the A/C all day and taken out to work in the heat .... that is harder on them than if they are in the environment in which they will be worked. END QUOTE

Very good point, Nancy! This is a very important thing to consider, which most people overlook.


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## Dan Reiter (May 12, 2006)

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I agree dog should be conditioned above all first, (dont keep in air conditioning on regular basis). I also load up 65 gallons of cold well water if I know is going to be hot and sunny. It has been great hit when group training and someone drags along kiddy pool. Can be purchased for under 100.00 at local farm & fleet stores. Takes a couple days to warm up above 70 degrees. I mainly use when tracking on hot sunny day will give you more drive on long tracks by total soaking at the start. 

Dan Reiter


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## Stacia Porter (Apr 8, 2006)

Lyn Chen said:


> My GSD easily gets tired when we train during the past few days now that it's really warm. Maybe 5-10 minutes he's pooped. I keep waiting for cloudy days but they never come when I want them. :evil: Any suggestions to condition a dog or to help him through the summer months?


To add to the other excellent suggestions, my aunt gave me a neat idea she uses with her border collie at the dog park: she wets and freezes bandanas to tie around the dog when he gets overheated at the park! She puts it around his neck with the triangle in front, and keeps extras in a cooler in her car along with his water and ice. She said she's also used this trick with her sister's lab/chow mix and my brother's English bulldog. I think it goes along with teh "armpit" info (b/c that's mostly where the bandana falls).

We're being extra careful with Achilles this summer b/c we came from a much milder climate (Germany) and we're having trouble adjusting to the southern weather, so we can just imagine how the dog feels. Right now he's sleeping through the hottest parts of the day by choice, so I've been following his lead and doing training and exercise in the early morning and late night when it's coolest out.


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## Michele Moore (Mar 27, 2006)

I also got this little cooler drop in deal called Kooleraire that is a fan you plug into the car outlet. I put it behind the crates and point it so it blows in, it also works better then a dog crate fan and I keep my drinks underneath it in the cooler. It is more expensive on this site http://www.kooleraire.com/

but I think I got it for about $20 from a boating magazine. I know it looks lame but it works.


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Michele Moore said:


> I also got this little cooler drop in deal called Kooleraire that is a fan you plug into the car outlet. I put it behind the crates and point it so it blows in, it also works better then a dog crate fan and I keep my drinks underneath it in the cooler. It is more expensive on this site http://www.kooleraire.com/
> 
> but I think I got it for about $20 from a boating magazine. I know it looks lame but it works.


I just forwarded this post to several people in my family who travel with dogs and would love a five-minute deal for running into a store, etc.

Of course they always have a cooler, so this looks like a nice little aid.

Thanks!


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## Michele Moore (Mar 27, 2006)

Connie Sutherland said:


> I just forwarded this post to several people in my family who travel with dogs and would love a five-minute deal for running into a store, etc.
> 
> Of course they always have a cooler, so this looks like a nice little aid.
> 
> Thanks!


That is basically what it is good for. I use it when I travel and when I am at training and my truck is open with the crates inside. I have an extension cord for the 12 volt plug and have used it when camping also. It works pretty well for me. It uses the mid size (25 qt) cooler and luckily I already had one.


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## Nancy Jocoy (Apr 19, 2006)

That unit looks pretty sweet. I was looking at coming up with something with copper tubing and a water pump and an ice chesst to fit between the fan and the crate, but this looks a heck of a lot simpler - and you can put a PVC pipe on it to direct the air.

Going to have to see if I can make room for one . It is the all day weekend trainings that require the most vigilance. 

For Stacia - watch this site, www.airnow.gov, (Actually anyone in NC or CA), NC from Charlotte West and down towards Atlanta has some horrible air quality so watch for Ozone. this site links to a Charlotte (and other site) where you can get air quality readings in real time.


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## Stacia Porter (Apr 8, 2006)

[quote="Nancy Jocoy"
For Stacia - watch this site, www.airnow.gov, (Actually anyone in NC or CA), NC from Charlotte West and down towards Atlanta has some horrible air quality so watch for Ozone. this site links to a Charlotte (and other site) where you can get air quality readings in real time.[/quote]

Thanks, Nancy! We're not that bad here in Hickory (been in the orange on Ozone), but we still stay indoors between the hours of 3 and 6 if at all possible. I've never had experience with this -- all new to me...


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## David Stucenski (Mar 29, 2008)

Sarah Hall said:


> I would buy a cheap plastic kid's swimming pool and have the dog take breaks in it. Make sure the dog's belly and chest get wet, it's also good to try to get betweeen the rear legs wet if you can. Otherwise, just take some good breaks in a cool car or inside, offer nice cool water (I'll stick ice cubes in it on really hot days) and deal as best as you can.
> All of this, of course, is after the dog has been cleared of any fatigue-causing illnesses.


What are some of the fatigue causing illnesses??? I have a 4 year old police K-9 male Mal that I have always thought got tired before all other k-9s in our unit. I took him to the vet upon getting him and the first weeks of patrol school. He came from over seas with kennel cough. We thought this was the problem. To this day i think he still gets too tired too quickly. Any ideas????? We train at least once a week plus deployment during work. He does work on conditioning. I am not all that impressed with the State Vet(low bid). I am thinking of taking him to my vet where I go with my home dogs even if it comes out of my pocket.


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## David Frost (Mar 29, 2006)

David, just a comment. If it is like some of my handlers, you could hang meat in their cruiser. The dog just never gets acclimated. Unless it is a physiological problem of some sort, the dog just may need some exercise to build up his stamina in the heat. We, carefully, run (work) these dogs to the point of near exhaustion. One can see the stamina develop as training progresses. 

DFrost


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## Terry Fisk (Jul 26, 2007)

Lyn Chen said:


> My GSD easily gets tired when we train during the past few days now that it's really warm. Maybe 5-10 minutes he's pooped. I keep waiting for cloudy days but they never come when I want them. :evil: Any suggestions to condition a dog or to help him through the summer months?


We are in the High Desert of So Cal so I feel your pain. You can try the GoDog Sports drink. It is meant to prevent overheating by reducing core temperature, increasing oxygen delivery and improving hydration. We have used it very successfully during training and competition for shows, agility, obedience, tracking and protection. More information http://www.showandsport.com/godog_sports_drink.htm

Also, cooling the underside and feet of the dog with water or rubbing alcohol (pads of feet only) before training helps (play in a pool, use a squirt bottle, hose, etc). Don't wet the back and head as the water magnifies the sun and is counter productive.


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## Howard Knauf (May 10, 2008)

David S., My boy is what you would call the "Sweater" of the K9 world. You know how some people sweat at the slightest rise in temp? Well, he's the same way. He always seems to be panting, even in cool buildings. He was checked out and no physical problems were noted. Before I got him one agency declined purchase because he appeared fatigued after slight testing. As long as your dogs' performance doesn't drop off when working/training I wouldn't worry about it.

Howard


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## Mo Earle (Mar 1, 2008)

we are in South Fla. and summer is back... it has been humid and hot, so our summer style training has started, in addition to our usual bite work-we have our dogs swim across the pond to get a bite, helps build endurance, keeps the dogs cool, and they still get to bite. Our kennels are air-conditioned- and we now either work early a.m. or in the evening...and always try to have training done by noon...in addition to swimming with bite work, just swimming in the pool is great, and the treadmill inside the kennel is also a good way to run the dogs, if it is too humid/hot during the day... But everyone needs to take the Heat seriously when it comes to training- a couple of years back a local Florida "sport" club, lost 3 fabulous dogs in one summer down here..2 Mals and one GSD, due to heat ...


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

David Stucenski said:


> What are some of the fatigue causing illnesses??? I have a 4 year old police K-9 male Mal that I have always thought got tired before all other k-9s in our unit. I took him to the vet upon getting him and the first weeks of patrol school. He came from over seas with kennel cough. We thought this was the problem. To this day i think he still gets too tired too quickly. Any ideas????? We train at least once a week plus deployment during work. He does work on conditioning. I am not all that impressed with the State Vet(low bid). I am thinking of taking him to my vet where I go with my home dogs even if it comes out of my pocket.


Do you know the history of this dog? Once a dog has suffered heat exhaustion it will tend to get it quicker later on.


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## David Stucenski (Mar 29, 2008)

David F. I might be one of those handlers. I am always the one with the hood up and A/C on full. Guess I will have to start keeping the windows down except on extreme days. We are just heading into a six week intensive Tactical Dog School. Right in the middle of our summer. Will have to start the exposure slowly.....
I don't know the history of the dog at except his time with me since July 06. Going to take him to the vet anyways for another complete bloodwork. Any ideas what to ask for???
As a general rule if the cruiser is in the shade, what are the temps and humidity marks to use as a danger point?


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## Tammy McDowell (Dec 4, 2006)

Just a big reminder to keep a watch on your dogs when they are out in the heat. I've never had a problem with a dog in 8+ years and 2 weeks ago we had a dog have a heat stroke. Luckily we were home and able to get him to the vet in time so is still with us.

That being said, a very good friend of many on the board lost her American Bulldog on Sunday to heat stroke. Dozer was not only her companion of many years but also her service dog. 


*SIGNS OF HEAT STROKE*
Signs of heat stroke are intense, rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering and weakness. Advanced heat stroke victims will collapse and become unconscious. The gums will appear pale and dry. If heat stroke is suspected and you can take the animal's temperature rectally, any temperature above 106 degrees is dangerous. The longer the temperature remains at or above 106 degrees the more serious the situation. If you return to your car or the area in which the animal was confined and find your pet seems to be highly agitated, wide-eyed and panting uncontrollably... start for the nearest animal hospital right away with the air conditioning at full blast. Otherwise get the dog to a cool area and begin the treatment for heat stroke.

*TREATMENT FOR HEAT STROKE
*Take the pet's temperature rectally if possible. A body temperature of about 105 degrees or higher is probable evidence for* heat stroke. *Place your pet in a tub of cool running water or spray with a hose *being sure the cool water contacts the skin and doesn't simply run off the coat*. Thoroughly wet the belly and inside the legs. Run the cool water over the tongue and mouth. Take a rectal temperature if possible to know when to stop cooling. A safe temperature is about 103 degrees. A small dog will cool down much faster than a large dog. Once the temperature gets to 103 or 104 degrees do not cool the pet any further because the cooling effects will continue to bring the temperature down even further. Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible​


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## Nancy Jocoy (Apr 19, 2006)

Old thread but I just bought a thermometer and can do Grims temperature by myself [I think we prefer K-Y to Astroglide for this application]

Anyway - at training the other day he got up to 104.2-it was a hot day. At rest he was 101.2. At 104.2 he was showing no signs of stress

I have read stuff all over the place about rectal temperatures of working dogs. 

This article says it very much depends on the breed and the individual dog with some temperatures of normal healthy dogs during work. So how DO you use a thermometer to guage level of heat stress other than relating it to the other visible signs?

http://www.sportsvet.com/11Nwsltr.PDF


Greyhounds (Rose & Bloomberg, 1989)
104° - 106° F
Labradors (Matwichuk, Taylor, ET al, 1999)
102° - 107° F
Pointers (Gillette, clinical field work, 1999)
103° - 106° F
Foxhounds (Gillette, clinical field work, 2001)
100° – 103° F


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