# Problems with the bark and hold



## Alex Corral (Jul 10, 2007)

Hey guys, my Boxer is not much of a barker to begin with and we are having a hard time getting her to bark consistenly. She will see the decoy and pull hard after him, but she will not bark much. We have been training to where her bark stimulates the decoy's movement. It has gotten better, but we seem to have hit a plateau for the last couple months. Any suggestions?


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## Justin Eimer (Oct 17, 2006)

Alex Corral said:


> Hey guys, my Boxer is not much of a barker to begin with and we are having a hard time getting her to bark consistenly. She will see the decoy and pull hard after him, but she will not bark much. We have been training to where her bark stimulates the decoy's movement. It has gotten better, but we seem to have hit a plateau for the last couple months. Any suggestions?


No bark... No bite.
Bark...Bite
Bark...Bite
Bark, Bark... Bite
Bark, Bark... Bite
Bark, Bark, Bark... Bite
And so on... :wink:


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

I agree with Justin. No bark no bite. Put her up and bring her back out later. No bark no bite, put her up till next training day. Frustration builds drive, drive will bring on the bark. Bark bite. Over and over again. Then you won't be able to shut her up.


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## Frank Hutto (Dec 12, 2007)

I agree with what's been said thus far.
You also might want to try, depending on the age/maturity level of the dog, having the decoy apply a little more defense/pressure. I've seen dogs with erradict, inconsistent hold & barks completely turn around into very nice barkers after the realize the man poses a threat. Just remember that in most cases a little defense/pressure goes a long way and your dogs maturity level will determine when you should start this kind of work.


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## Frank Phillips (Jan 8, 2008)

A lot of times with young dogs this problem is just that the dog gets "locked" in prey drive for the bite and stops barking. Have the helper see if there is a distance that the barking stops. Have him approach slowly as the dog barks, if the dog stops, backup...find the distance and then give the bite from that distance as the dog is barking by either letting the dog go (on the helpers signal) or have the helper run into prey and give the bite (if this is a young dog). You must slowly close the distance until the dog can do a hold and guard at the correct distance.... I hope this makes sense...Again, this is just one possibility like the others above......


Frank


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## Will Kline (Jan 10, 2008)

Frank Phillips said:


> A lot of times with young dogs this problem is just that the dog gets "locked" in prey drive for the bite and stops barking. Have the helper see if there is a distance that the barking stops. Have him approach slowly as the dog barks, if the dog stops, backup...find the distance and then give the bite from that distance as the dog is barking by either letting the dog go (on the helpers signal) or have the helper run into prey and give the bite (if this is a young dog). You must slowly close the distance until the dog can do a hold and guard at the correct distance.... I hope this makes sense...Again, this is just one possibility like the others above......
> 
> 
> Frank


You took the words right out of my mouth! There is a certain distance, differs for each dog, which incites the bark response initially. To close or to far away and they either shut up or whine. Also, I have noticed that sometimes as a decoy it is best to just stop moving for a few seconds and not constantly jump or move about . This sometimes gets them barking to get you to move again as the decoy! When they do start to bark , even if it is a small one, jump in and give them the bite!


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

Alex, I agree with the other posts to some extent. The dog is the one who starts the "game" through barking. When it barks, it gets a bite. Some dogs are not big barkers. It can be genetic, bad training, maturity, a thousand things. 

Try this, have the decoy stand in the blind a DON'T look into the dog's eyes, this is defense. Make sure the dog is about 6-8' away from the decoy. If the dog barks even one time give it he bite, NO fight on the sleeve. If you get no bark and the dog is wanting to get to the decoy, have them run out of the blind and behind it. Strobing action and get back into the blind, wallk the dog back up for a B & H. What you are trying to do is make the dog think it LOST the prey, this is what the helper is PREY!

Too much defense or defense on a young dog can cause a "no bark" issue. It isn't the only thing, but it is one thing. Also if the decoy is too close or looking into its eyes this can be an issue. You can also back tie the dog to a post and use no blind, keep it phun!!!!!!!!!!![-o<


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## Alex Corral (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks for the advice guys. Usually when my dog sees the decoy she's whining and pulling hard. I will let her out on her leash about 3-4 ft from me and about 2 feet from the decoy. When she barks, he moves, there is little to no eye contact. She does seem to lock up into prey drive, as she will sit and growl at the decoy. Once she barks, she gets a bite. At times though, she will just sit there and try to get the decoy w/no barking. We'll try the distance and see how that works.


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## Courtney Guthrie (Oct 30, 2007)

I did the No Bark No Bite with my Am. Staff. She was not a big barker and now I can't get the twit to shut up on the field. 

When she wouldn't bark..I took her off the field...crated her where she could see the other dogs being worked and then she was done for the day. 2 weeks training of that and she started barking. She barks and barks and barks now. We made it really fun for her and that's what she likes.


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

We practice a different version of the B & H (bark and hold) as many do. The B & H or (bite and hold) is helpful in being able to hear the decoy hit all new high notes. Now, where is that pop singer who likes little ones????? :-o


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