# French Ring Palisade



## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

I am looking for some good photos showing the palisade for French ring. I am having one built for me but the non dog guy that is building it is missing the idea, some pics or links to pics would be appreciated. Thanks Greg


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## Chad Byerly (Jun 24, 2008)

Training *Ring* Sport *Palisade* (Climbing Wall) - Working Dog Forum

There's some photos on this thread.



Also, http://www.californiamondioring.org/ has Jumps Photo Page


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## Mo Earle (Mar 1, 2008)

the guy building your palisade, may want to know the increments of boards and height also-
I took this from the Nara Rule book-


The dog must scale a vertical wall 1.7 meters tall at minimum and adjustable up to 2.3 meters at maximum height. He must make, on command, both an out jump as well as a return jump.​​From 1.8 meters on up, measured from the ground, visible figures will indicate the graduations of height in 10 cm increments, up to the maximum possible height of 2.3 meters.​​


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## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

Thanks for the info thats exactly what I needed.


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## melissa mims (Jul 12, 2006)

Anyone know if the slats should be of a particular wood?

I remember tidbits about the wood should have some give, and should not be too hard, but no one got more specifiec than that.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Greg drop me a PM with your email I have the latest rules that CRA has adopted but NARA hasn't and it has all the measurements and line drawings of all the jumps. I can forward a copy to you it is in MS word.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

melissa mims said:


> Anyone know if the slats should be of a particular wood?
> 
> I remember tidbits about the wood should have some give, and should not be too hard, but no one got more specifiec than that.


I've made jumps out of pine or plywood. both have enough give to them. Be sure to prime before painting if you don't use treated wood. With plywood, prime and paint anyway.


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## Tammy McDowell (Dec 4, 2006)

One of our club member's husband just built a palisade for us...here are a few photos...

He put braces at the bottom on each side, we have since taken the braces off for fear of a dog falling on them. Palisade is nice and sturdy w/ out the braces anyways.


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## Chad Byerly (Jun 24, 2008)

Tammy McDowell said:


> One of our club member's husband just built a palisade for us...here are a few photos...
> 
> He put braces at the bottom on each side, we have since taken the braces off for fear of a dog falling on them. Palisade is nice and sturdy w/ out the braces anyways.


Very nice jump, and dog!


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Bob Scott said:


> I've made jumps out of pine or plywood. both have enough give to them. Be sure to prime before painting if you don't use treated wood. With plywood, prime and paint anyway.


The palisade is not supposed to be painted according to the rules, just bare wood. You could use a piece of plywood for up to 1.5m but after that you need the 10cm increments. 

I'm going to use hard wood from some scrap skids for the new one I'm getting. The skids I have are either made out of maple or ash. I wouldn't want to use pine unless it was dried really well as pine carries a lot of gummy sap. 

The palisade we are using now the boards are actually mahogany. We have had complaints that the mahogany is slippery. No problem for our dogs but others I guess like to make excuses! :-\" The mahogany was bought more for longevity and the TD got a good deal on it. 

Here is our mahogany palisade .. 










Notice the bottom half of our jump showing the jump supports. Which we wrapped with pipe insulation and electrical tape to protect the dogs from anything silly happening. 

My new palisade is going to come from Nikanda Industries out of Calgary. Tim's jumps are used by lots of clubs and has a better design for the safety of the dogs. Though I think wouldn't be as stable as having the jump supports. Though I'm having Tim allow for a Mondio type of ramp that we can attach on either side, so that is probably a moot point.










You can see the movement on this similarly designed palisade. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKjU9BYkbtE Our mahogany palisade with the supports gives the dogs confidence and doesn't move when even the biggest dogs go up it.


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## melissa mims (Jul 12, 2006)

any plusses or minuses about cedar? I am with you on the longevity thing. 
I never thought about mahagony. Pretty dense wood.

Thanks for the pics. Nice compact frame.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Bob Scott said:


> I've made jumps out of pine or plywood. both have enough give to them. Be sure to prime before painting if you don't use treated wood. With plywood, prime and paint anyway.


The palisade is not supposed to be painted according to the rules, just bare wood. You could use a piece of plywood for up to 1.5m but after that you need the 10cm increments. 

I'm going to use hard wood from some scrap skids for the new one I'm getting. The skids I have are either made out of maple or ash. I wouldn't want to use pine unless it was dried really well as pine carries a lot of gummy sap. 

The palisade we are using now the boards are actually mahogany. We have had complaints that the mahogany is slippery. No problem for our dogs but others I guess like to make excuses! :-\" The mahogany was bought more for longevity and the TD got a good deal on it. 

Here is our mahogany palisade .. 










Notice the bottom half of our jump showing the jump supports. Which we wrapped with pipe insulation and electrical tape to protect the dogs from anything silly happening. 

My new palisade is going to come from Nikanda Industries out of Calgary. Tim's jumps are used by lots of clubs and has a better design for the safety of the dogs. Though I think wouldn't be as stable as having the jump supports. Though I'm having Tim allow for a Mondio type of ramp that we can attach on either side, so that is probably a moot point.










You can see the movement on this similarly designed palisade. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKjU9BYkbtE Our mahogany palisade with the supports gives the dogs confidence and doesn't move when even the biggest dogs go up it.


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## Gary Garner (Jun 30, 2007)

This is a more synthetic palisade...

It shows my friend Scott's Mali called Gwen going over it...

This has to be the best high scale/palisade jump i've seen accomplished;










=D>


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

melissa mims said:


> any plusses or minuses about cedar? I am with you on the longevity thing.
> I never thought about mahagony. Pretty dense wood.


I have cedar boards on my palisade and love them for the longevity. I've had it for years, sometimes it's set up in my yard, other times it's all stacked in a corner, where the wood gets wet and stuff, but no problems with rot.

The wood really should be rough cut for the palisade. It gives the dogs some traction. If you can't get rough cut wood then you can drive a few nails through a piece of scrap wood and use this to 'rough up' the boards. 

Some people make their palisades out of 2x4s and just cut them down in height to be 10cm. I don't like this, it's like hitting a brick wall for the dog, the 2x4's are to thick and don't have any give to them. I'd have to look around but at one point I saw a diagram for a palisade that indicated the boards were only supposed to be about 1 inch thick (it was a metric measurement). 

Also keep in mind a wider palisade is better from a handler stand point. If you make your palisade just the minimum width required, it doesn't leave a lot of room for the dog to go up and over when the handler is standing against the palisade. Especially if you have diagonal support rods which make the handler stand even further "in" the palisade. 

I like the diagonal supports on this palisade. Very sturdy, but also with them being so high up there is IMO less chance of a dog hitting one if they fall off, and if they do hit it, it will be with less force (they fall a shorter distance before hitting it, vs the ones near the bottom of the palisade)










About half way down the side on the photo above you can see a little round dot. This is actually the end of a bolt, there is a thin metal piece that goes from one side of the palisade to the other and sits on top of one of the boards, this helps to keep the side supports from bowing outwards and stablizes things.

Another view, same palisade, showing how the diagonal supports hook in. The spacing between the boards isn't bad, but I prefer to see none at all as I've seen dogs get a toe/toenail in between the boards and get injured. I like to figure out how the boards fit together best (trim an edge if needed) then mark all the boards so you know what order to put them in every time.


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## melissa mims (Jul 12, 2006)

I have seen boards that fit together tongue and grove, so the fit between the boards is nice and tight. But as you mentioned, the boards themselves were rather thick in order to have the thickness necessary for for the groove.

Perhaps a beveled edge would be sufficient, and would allow flex.

Nice touch with the crossbar, Kadi. Adds strength without bulk.


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## Mo Earle (Mar 1, 2008)

our palisade is similar to this one Geoff showed, we got some brackets at the auto store-they are u-shaped, I think they were called spring coiled brackets-we hammered them into the ground, we put one on either side-but also opposite sides from each other- but anyway, work real well,and the way they are positioned, even if the dog landed on them, they aren't going to get hurt- we also didn't paint our palisade, we left it bare wood, I think we used cedar- but it has been real durable and the dogs like it fine.


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