# Conditioning and Injury prevention



## Sarah ten Bensel (Mar 16, 2008)

No argument that our dogs are at greater risk for getting hurt. It is also well established that good conditioning and proper warm-up decrease the risk for serious injury and improve our dogs recovery in the event of a injury. Some folks use weighted vests and collars. I am not a fan of using weighted collars or weighted vests. Primarily because the spine is designed for flexibility and the desemination of force rather than load bearing. The spine does load laterally for dogs (pulling) and that load is dispersed throughout the entire core of the animal, but the weighted vest/collars may put an unnatural downward force on the spine. IMO 
Anyway, my point is what are people doing to train and strengthen their dogs?
What works?
What doesn't?
What is most important for your conditioning program?
Do you have a certain "protocol"?


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Training three days a week and lots of off lead walks and retrieving, just for the fun of it, on days off. 
I'd like to work up the energy (for me) to train the both of us for the AD with my dog.


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## Terry Fisk (Jul 26, 2007)

We do jump chutes (series of jumps close enough for the dog to get one bounce and arch over the jump) to develop muscles and two toy (ball, piece of hose, etc) games for endurance. If I had a swimming pool that would be my ideal conditioning tool, great for developing all muscles and no impact.


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## Andy Andrews (May 9, 2006)

I'm a big believer in treadmill conditioning.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=gXkxcJG_Kig

This mill retails for about $1200, but it's not hard to find a used one for about $400-500. One of the best investments you can make in terms of a dog's health/fitness, imo.




Andy.


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## Ian Forbes (Oct 13, 2006)

Terry Fisk said:


> We do jump chutes (series of jumps close enough for the dog to get one bounce and arch over the jump) to develop muscles and two toy (ball, piece of hose, etc) games for endurance. If I had a swimming pool that would be my ideal conditioning tool, great for developing all muscles and no impact.


I do what you do Terry. The jump chutes are great (often called Cavalletti training). Swimming is an excellent muscle and stamina builder and is very useful when rehabilitating an injured dog.

I also like to use a 'ball-chucker' every so often to give my dog a few repetitions of long sprints.

Enthusiastic tug sessions are also good for building up the strength and stamina for bitework.


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## Frank Smego (Feb 29, 2008)

I believe in progressive, incremental training, so much so I might write a article someday. Basically, it's not unlike training human athlete. Each conditioning session builds on the prior session, with increasing stress(Dist/Time/Weight resistence) with ample rest. Starting with walk with the puppy to running an adult for the AD.

WEEK ONE - I start a puppy on day #1 (Monday) with a walk around the block at it's pace. Day #2 we rest stay home and just play. Day #3 we walk a block & a 1/2 again at it's own pace(we have just increased dist & time by 50%) Day #4 & 5 rest stay home & play. Day #6 we fall back to 1/2 block walk. Day #7 we rest.

WEEK TWO & THREE - Then the cycle repeats starting the next Monday but we add 25% to all the distences, We stay at the new level for two weeks.

WEEK FOUR - We "fall back" to week one levels 

Then the whole 4 week cycle restarts with the week two/three dist. being used as the new baseline in week one.

By conditioning on this schedule the dog is used to pushing an extra 25% on a regular basis. When the dog is comfortable with 10 mi., the jump to 12 mi. will not be over taxing. Of course weather/temp/humidity are factors along with the dog's hydration & over-all enegry levels.

This is based on proven powerlifting and long dist running training/rest reco-op cycles that I have used(weight training) and my GF has used (marathon & ultras).

I conditioned my Rotty from week 12 like this. On her 1st birthday we walked 9 mi. in 3 mile leggs (15 min. break & water).....I was literly flamed of a Rotty site for such blasphemy!!!

At 29 mos. that dog recieved an OFA excellent ratting. \\/ \\/ \\/ 

Our last Bike/Run was 8mi. she was 2 1/2 years at that time.

I hope to get her AD later this spring.

This cycle of progressive incremets is effective for walking, running, weight pull, tred mill or swimming swimming.

I've also incorporated a weight collar into my program. Starting with adding an 8 oz. chain collar with play, then walking. When we got to 3 miles(walking) with no signs of fatigue I would increse the weight of the collar in 8 oz. steps. We only walked until the colar got to 3.5#s. Then we fell back to a 1# collar and begain running with the weight collar. Again slowing increasing Weight/Time/Distence.

Her last weight collar run was 4 mi with 3.5 pounds.

This spring we will start with weighted doggie back packs. Again at a very slow and structured pace with ample rest.

I do suggest adding a glucosamine supplement with any conditioning program.

The two most important points AMPLE REST, slow structure increases.


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## Frank Smego (Feb 29, 2008)

Just a follow-up note. Today we did our 1st bike run since earily Nov. After a 4 month lay-off from running Elsa did 4 mi. with ease. In fact she started out way to fast, and we had a nice little Play & OB session after.


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## Sarah ten Bensel (Mar 16, 2008)

Excellent advice Frank. Gradual increase in load and ample rest. Sounds like you are referring to a puppy. If one is just getting started on a "program" with an adult dog, where do you start--how to you get a baseline to measure 25%?
Do you do any stretching or warm-up/cooldown?
Any problems with injury?


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## Trish Campbell (Nov 28, 2006)

Heh Bob, the dogs usually do better than the riders on the AD  
I'm more worried about me making it!


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## Julie Blanding (Mar 12, 2008)

There is a pretty well-known k9 therapy center in CT. It's called Wizard of paws and run by Debbie Gross Saunders, she has the under water treadmill at her place, and a friend of mine purchased a package of 10 sessions. She also has DVDs on strengthening, stretching, and get on the ball.

I'm going to try the ball today with my dog, it should be fun.
The exercises are developed to isolate muscle groups and really work on the dog's core strength. My friend purchased the DVD and the ball (the same one that goes to the under water treadmill).

Pretty cool stuff! I know they do a lot of it for agility dogs, but she does have a client that does Ring too, I also think she conditions some sled dogs.

Check it out if you want, I think it's pretty cool!

http://www.wizardofpaws.net/pages/about.htm

I'll let you guys know how it goes. Should be very interesting!
My dog might go nuts seeing a huge toy, or try to mount it...
Julie


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## Lynn Cheffins (Jul 11, 2006)

Bob Scott said:


> Training three days a week and lots of off lead walks and retrieving, just for the fun of it, on days off.
> I'd like to work up the energy (for me) to train the both of us for the AD with my dog.


Bob, I got a GPS - Garmin Forerunner 201 http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_...older_id=2534374302696155&bmUID=1206808000318
and I have found it is a great training tool for running dogs. It is a very simple GPS and not one I would want to use for serious backwoods navigation but as it is designed for human runners it makes a great tool for dog training. You can also download the stuff from the GPS to programs like http://www.motionbased.com/ and track progress, map your trails, etc. Nice simple GPS and you can switch back from pace to speed settings easily. Not expensive either and simple enough for technophobes (like myself  ) to operate....


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## Frank Smego (Feb 29, 2008)

Sarah ten Bensel said:


> Excellent advice Frank. Gradual increase in load and ample rest. Sounds like you are referring to a puppy. If one is just getting started on a "program" with an adult dog, where do you start--how to you get a baseline to measure 25%?
> Do you do any stretching or warm-up/cooldown?
> Any problems with injury?


With an Adult dog your baseline distence is a comfortable walk dist. that on completetion you dog can & will do basic heeling drills to acceptible levels for that dog. So we don't want the dog so tired that it can't focus on commands or wants to sleep. This could be 1/2 to 4 miles each dog will be different but, most dogs (and Handles)can handle this program as the increases are not extreme.

Fot bicyle rides I have a speedometer and start the 1st 1/4 mile slower that troiting pace for that dog. My Malamute troits best at 8.5 mph so we start at 6.5 as a warm-up. After a ride we walk about a 1/2 mile as a cool down.

Then just a few tastes of of water until 45 min. to prevent bloat.


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## Michelle Reusser (Mar 29, 2008)

I do off leash road work with my dogs after 1 year of age. We start with .5 miles or less and work our way up deppending on the dog. My big boned 1.5 yr old has yet to go more than 1.75 at one time but we do this at least 3 times a week, play ball daily and swim when weather permits. I keep my dogs thin and fit. My smaller boned female age 7 will gladly do 4 miles of roadwork every day if her feet could handle it. She's a little dense and doesn't realize she should be trotting not hauling balls most of the way.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Lynn Cheffins said:


> Bob, I got a GPS - Garmin Forerunner 201 http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_...older_id=2534374302696155&bmUID=1206808000318
> and I have found it is a great training tool for running dogs. It is a very simple GPS and not one I would want to use for serious backwoods navigation but as it is designed for human runners it makes a great tool for dog training. You can also download the stuff from the GPS to programs like http://www.motionbased.com/ and track progress, map your trails, etc. Nice simple GPS and you can switch back from pace to speed settings easily. Not expensive either and simple enough for technophobes (like myself  ) to operate....


Neat product! That could take the place of a spedo on the bike in addition to keeping tract of everything else.


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## Michael Brewer (Feb 20, 2008)

I personally use weighted gear to exercise my dogs. If you gradually increase the workload over time the risk of injury to the spine is very minimal. I don't suggest using weights on a dog less than 14 months old. Frank explained the program that I use to a "t" so I won't go into that. The only difference is that I would use a harness that is built for weight resistant training than a back pack that you put anything in it to get the load. 
Also I run my dogs for time rather than distance. It's the formula that works for me. It's easier for me to judge my dogs limits with time than to go for a set distance, especially with changes in weather and the mood of the dog. I alternate between roadwork, treadmill and sprints<retrieves with two toys>. 
On my dogs "off" days they swim. I also massage my dogs after each outing. During the massage I stretch each limb and digit<toes> and watch for any tender spots.

www.powrdogs.com


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## Frank Smego (Feb 29, 2008)

Michael - I really like the quality of your PD collars...nice stuff! I was especially impreed with the weight collars. I use chain in progressive weight as the dog developes. I wrap the chain in a bandanna to give that PC look to my dogs. "Oh look what cute dog wearing a bandanna!"....LOL Yes, with 5lbs of chain in it.

A friend is using dog packs with sand as a load. He's been happy with his Rotweilers development. I( was planning on going to a pulling harness and use a truck tire(s0 as a load. I think the resistence will be a better work out vs. carring the load.

I'd like to hear your thoughts.


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## Anne Vaini (Mar 15, 2007)

I have different exercise regiemes depending on the activity I'm preparing the dog for. I used weighted vests, treadmill, swimming, running, jumping and balance/core exercise.

For weight pull, carrying weighted packs does little. Dragging an object like a tire or sledge is better. Start low and go for a mile walk. Gradually raise the weight. Endurance training does little to nothing for training the dog to break heavy weights, so static pulling on a pulley system is a more appropriate exercise.

I do disc play with my dogs also for a quick full-body workout. Not something to jump into without knowing much about the sport and how to keep dogs and handlers safe...


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## Mark Horne (Oct 12, 2006)

Treadmills are interesting, your dog will look in great condition and have a good CV ability. Shortcomings are they work the Central Nervous System and muscles/joints in an unnatural way i.e. foot being moved behind as opposed to driving forwards. The motion is linear, however if your is doing bitework for example is is often driven side to side or backwards at lateral angles. So training should reflect performance to minimise injury (conditioning) by strengthen the joints.
Must be pretty boring for the dog however for owners with restricted mobility it's a useful tool.
A key point to remember is variety, even with running vary distances and pace weekly.
Even too much chasing the ball every day can lead to overuse injury with constant decelleration and sharp turns.
Rest is critical, no to be confused with inactivety. If your dog has a tough session on Saturday then a steady 45min outing on Sunday to warm the muscles and remove toxins, keeping his head happy too.
Remember no matter how high the drive give them 5mins to warm up, there body needs to switch from resting in the kennel and digesting food, to pumping the blood into the muscles. Likewise with the cool downs, don't put them straight back in the car when they're still blowing, walk them round a bit. They are althlete's these many of the dogs on hear have more in common with race horses than pet dogs.

Mark

Mark


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