# Specs, Designs?? Bite Box, Placement, Positions Boxes Etc..



## Joby Becker (Dec 13, 2009)

looking for basic info, specs, or drawings for all types of dogs training equipment..
placement boxes/position boxes
bite boxes

ideas for anything really..

have all winter long, and a shit ton of wood to build stuff out of...
any other ideas of cool stuff to build feel free, especially if you have pics or plans... 

general estimates of sizes welcome too...

ideas of stuff for PVC of various sizes welcome too....1/2 inch to 3"
thanks


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## Tony Hahn (May 28, 2011)

Home made jump using leftover vinyl siding pieces.










Home made dumbbell using scrap 4x4 and closet rod inside pvc for strength (if you don't reinforce the closet rod with pvc it will break when the dumbbell lands). Use a scale to weigh the assembly and trim the 4x4 ends until you get the weight you want.










A-Frame. These are easy to build if you make them 4' wide instead of regulation with. For training it's not necessary to make them any wider than a 4' sheet of plywood. If you're using the thing for your own dog at home it doesn't need to contain 700lbs of lumber. Just make two platforms with a 2x4 frame and hinge them together. Use chain and eye bolts on the side. 










Blinds made from electrical conduit and cheap tarps. If you are interested in building these I'll try to find the plans I copied from. 










Cart made from an old bed frame. No actual plans for this, just build to whatever size you want. This particular one was sized to hold a plastic crate/kennel.


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## Catherine Gervin (Mar 12, 2012)

that is a stately n' good lookin' Doberman!! he looks a little incredulous that he's strapped to a pile of wood, like 'Don't we have servants for this' kindof, i swear, but it's great to see a handsome Dobe!


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## Tony Hahn (May 28, 2011)

Thanks Catherine. Remy was a damn good dog but he's gone now. His “Eat $h!t and die” expression is because it was raining and I was spending too much time messing with the camera instead of working.


 I would say that he's waiting at the Rainbow Bridge, but knowing his temperament, he would have gotten yanked out of the meadow to be some Angel's PPD. If there is an afterlife for dogs where they get to do the things they love; I'm sure he's out there fighting demons instead of chasing butterflies.


Remy was a pretty good at carting. I've got video that I could post if anyone is interested.


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## Matt Vandart (Nov 28, 2012)

Dude, you know I am interested in seeing that vid!


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## Joby Becker (Dec 13, 2009)

post vids please.. Tony...

thanks for the pics and tips guys, keep em coming


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## Jon Harris (Nov 23, 2011)

there are always dutch boxes, hertzig walls and scent protocol boxes,


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## rick smith (Dec 31, 2010)

if you don't already have one, a balance board is simple to make. good for almost any type of dog and can even be used as an oversized (and more challenging) place mark once the dog/pup gets the hang of it.

i'll try and get mine out and shoot a pic but really not needed.

mine is about a 2 1/2 ft square 3/4inch plywood top and i used 2x6 for the rocker bottoms. the rockers are basically just an "X" on the bottom and curved so the top will rock and not sit flat on the ground. i didn't do any layout or math, i just cut one 2x6 with a saber saw and traced the same curve to the other piece. didn't use any fancy joinery; just used some wood cleats to keep the rockers stable where they cross in the middle.

and if it rocks too much you can tack a small block on each corner of the rocker arms to make it rock less, and remove em later

i put some carpet on it but that made it too easy, so now it's just a smooth wood top

easy to stow away and i suppose you could crank out a few and line em up as part of an "O" course ... but i just made one


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## Jon Harris (Nov 23, 2011)

look here it has all the specs
http://www.apd.army.mil/pdffiles/p190_12.pdf
pages 90 through 95


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Joby Becker said:


> ideas of stuff for PVC of various sizes welcome too....1/2 inch to 3"
> thanks


Here is a portable PVC position box I made out of 1/2" potable water pipe with a tubular case to fit all the pieces for transport and storage.


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## Alison Grubb (Nov 18, 2009)

Great thread guys. I've got a bunch of lumber and PVC to build stuff with too. Keep the plans coming!


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## Joby Becker (Dec 13, 2009)

yes great thread....Tony..plans for blinds please...have about 40 pieces of conduit and a box of tarps.. LOL


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

I and another member of the club I belonged to made portable blinds. Kate has a business making high end draperies and now also does custom dog training vests etc. http://customk9creations.com/

I drilled holes through the tops of three pieces of conduit then took a large key ring where you have to slide the ring on one end and move it around till it's on all of it). Simple as that. kate then cut and stitched the tarps to fit. That's where the real skill was involved. 

As for PVC stuff, I rreally like the Loganhause stuff for scent training. There is also a demo on the web where Mike shows how to build them.
I've also made one meter jump and the A frame also. AKC site has most of their jumps on line with dimensions. All of their jumps can also easily be done with pvc. There shoud be plenty of info on that in the net.


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## Tony Hahn (May 28, 2011)

Joby Becker said:


> yes great thread....Tony..plans for blinds please...have about 40 pieces of conduit and a box of tarps.. LOL


These are the plans I built from. I have limited ability to post pictures right now (unable to access photobucket, etc), so bear with me and I'll get some pics up soon.

I did not follow these plans exactly. What I did was spend an afternoon to make three blinds as cheap and quick as possible by using the basic idea of these plans but used whatever materials were economical and whatever measurements worked. For example I used cheap 8'x10' tarps and they've worked fine for me. The thin plastic tarps can be sewn on a regular household sewing machine. I put clear packing tape over the sewn seams and it's all held up very well, especially considering that I have not babied the blinds at all. Instead of using U-bolts at the tops of the blinds like this plan calls for, I just used a heavy piece of wire. Bob mentioned using a split ring to do the same thing. 

A picture helps a lot and I'll post one from home later. For now here are the written instructions- 

*Materials:*
(This can all be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes)
Three pieces of metal 1/2" conduit pipe 8' long, each with 5/16" holes drilled through apprx 2" from the top and bottom; (these are to fit the U-bolt at the top and the eyebolts at the bottom)

One 1/4" threaded U-bolt for 1 1/2" pipe with lock nuts (the center pipe is placed in the center of the U-bolt, flanked by the other two)

Three 1/4" by 2 1/2" eyebolts with 1/4" nylon lock nuts; (These will allow a tent spike to be driven through the eyebolts to hold the blind secure to the ground.) 

Three tent spikes/nails (4 to a package at Walmart) Or, if you have a welder, weld one each to the bottom of the support pipes. Then you won't need the eyebolts...however, using a hammer on a tent nail is easier that trying to push a welded spike into hard ground.

One package of a painters heavy duty 12X9 canvas drop cloth (Home Depot), in either plain or rubber backing. Plain is cheaper.

*Instructions:*
Cut the cloth into two equilateral triangles (ie one dimentional "pyramid") with the two sides each 90" long, the base at least 63" wide. (These dimensions include what is needed for hemming; you may have to piece scraps together to form a wide enough base if your drop cloth isn't the size it's supposed to be...)

Fold over 1 1/2" and hem one long side of each triangle to form a 3" pocket for the pipe. (These will be the outside uprights. Check the "pocket" for a snug but workable fit on the pipe before sewing)

Sew the remaining two long sides of the triangles together, overlapping 1 1/2" to form a pocket for the center support. 

With the two triangles joined, fold them together longways and cut about 8" off the apex, that is, you're cutting off the top of the "pyramid"; hem the top; also hem the bottom of the cloth.
(These dimensions can be adjusted; a very tall helper will likely need more than 8' uprights with appropriate adjustments to the canvas dimensions)
If you want to get creative, you can also sew a large pocket onto the outside of one triangle to hold a hammer and the tent spikes.

Thread the U-bolt through the holes drilled at the top of the conduit pipes; make sure the center pipe support is in the center of the U-bolt, flanked by the other two. Secure the U-bolt with the lock nuts. (Other folks have used a large metal ring here, but the U-bolt seems to work better for us)

Thread the 3 pipes into the pockets of the finished blind material. If the cloth slips too easily down the pipe you may have to rivet or screw the top of the cloth to the pipe. (Ours was such a tight fit it wasn't an issue)

Place an eyebolt through the hole at the base of each pipe, secured with the nut. (It's great if you can manage to face the eyebolt so it's always inside the open blind; that way a leash doesn't get caught on it when the dog comes around.)

Also, with the blind complete and if you have access to a gromet installer, place a couple of large grometted holes at about eye level on each half of the blind. Handy for the helper to watch the dog coming.

Use a stip of velcro or a small bungie cord to keep a blind rolled up for storage.


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## Tony Hahn (May 28, 2011)

Here is a drawing showing how to cut and sew the tarps-










This is a inexpensive way to connect the tops. Super cheap but it works-


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## Tony Hahn (May 28, 2011)

Matt Vandart said:


> Dude, you know I am interested in seeing that vid!


Hey Matt! Video posted here-

http://www.workingdogforum.com/vBulletin/f23/dog-carting-dobermann-35210/#post531218


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