# Good Grooming Clippers?



## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

So my oldest dog Buck (10-12 year old husky/Rottie mix) is undergoing some treatment for his greasy skin that is likely allergy induced (could be a combo of food and environmental allergies, as the intradermal skin panel wasn't strongly allergic, just moderately for some grasses). He's got the fur of a husky and as much as I'd prefer not to, I'm considering clipping down his fur to about 1/4 inch to help the medicated shampoo and treatments work. I've never had a dog that needed grooming before, so any recommendations on brands and models of clippers? Nothing too fancy, I guess, but something that's low maintenance, long lasting, and won't break if I look at it wrong would be nice.


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

Honestly, do not go with the cheapies, go with the upper middle, and high end stuff. It is a huge difference in quality and reliability. Find someone that sharpens blades, as they need sharpened every 4-5 times you strip down a big dog.


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

I liked all my Laube clippers, from the big ones to the small cordless recharables , but my all time, hands down, most favorite clippers ever were the Laube Micro Minis. Once I got them I pretty much used them and the small recharable Laubes exclusively. They never get hot, have very little vibration and are quiet. You can usually find them for $200 to $250. You can find cheaper clippers, but in the end the cheaper clippers aren't worth the aggravation.


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## Leslie Patterson (Mar 6, 2008)

Nooo don't shave a huskyx! There are health risks including causing skin problems plus the hair will most likely never grow back. I see it often especially in huskies, older dogs and dogs with existing skin problems.
They grow back something like this: www.onestopdogshop.com/images/photos/double_coat1.jpg
The best thing to do is keep the dog properly groomed, regularly. You can get medicated shampoos from the vet. There is a good chance it is food/allergy related, so if it were me I would look into finding a diet that works with the dog.


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Leslie Patterson said:


> Nooo don't shave a huskyx! There are health risks including causing skin problems plus the hair will most likely never grow back. I see it often especially in huskies, older dogs and dogs with existing skin problems.


I read something recently about shaved double-coated dogs (and it did say particularly older dogs) whose guard fur may never grow back in places.

Is clipping it but leaving some different from shaving?

This article was about GSDs, and how the undercoat would grow back but possibly not the guard hairs, making for UV exposure and lost insulation.


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## Anna Kasho (Jan 16, 2008)

Leslie Patterson said:


> They grow back something like this: www.onestopdogshop.com/images/photos/double_coat1.jpg


 
I'll second that, once you shave a husky, a lot don't grow back the same. If you plan to keep him short for the rest of his life, I guess it doesn't matter then...

I haven't had good luck with Laube clippers - when they work, they work great, when they break down (which was often, in my experience) they are a PITA to repair. My regular repair guy recommends Andis, he says they break down the least ofren and with fewer parts to replace.

I have an Andis AGP 2-speed that I really like. Comfortable in the hand, low vibration, used for several hours every workday and lasted a year so far with no problems.

On the blades, if you shave down only a CLEAN and DRY dog, and keep the blades cleaned and lubed as you're working, they will last a lot longer. Dirt, greasy skin stuff, wet hair, will jam up the blade and dull it quickly.


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## Leslie Patterson (Mar 6, 2008)

Connie Sutherland said:


> I read something recently about shaved double-coated dogs (and it did say particularly older dogs) whose guard fur may never grow back in places.
> 
> Is clipping it but leaving some different from shaving?
> 
> This article was about GSDs, and how the undercoat would grow back but possibly not the guard hairs, making for UV exposure and lost insulation.


 You can trim the coat, guard hair, up to but not past where the softer undercoat starts. When you shave closer it encourages softer coat to grow in more thickly and it is hard for guard hairs to grow threw. On GSD or Huskies the length of the coat between the tip of the guard hair and the tip of the soft undercoat is pretty close because their coats aren't that long to begin with so it is not worth any kind of damage to the coat even if it's minimal.

A husky may grow back but it can take up to 2-3yrs to grow back the way it was. The colour will probably change, it will be dull, and the hair that is more likely to grow back is thick soft undercoat. It will make the dog hotter in the summer, colder in the winter due to the lack of air circulation to the skin. With older dogs the hair sometimes doesn't grow back at all especially if they have a weak immune system, skin problems -either from before or caused by the shaving, and won't grow back if they have thyroid problems.

Skin problems can be cause with shaving because they can get hot spots from the lack of circulation of air to the skin when the coat grows in but grows back in as thick soft coat. The hair follicles can get damaged with shaving and will cause problems and worsen existing ones like that of the dog in question.

Basically for all of the reasons it seems like a good idea to shave a double-coated dog it is the opposite.


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

It's true, I saw a lot of dogs once shaved, took forever and a day to grow back a normal coat, but after at least a year or so the coat starts to look as it did before shaving - sort of. I even saw this same sort of strange phenomenon with goldens, with coats coming in very wooly, so it's not just double coated dogs. 

I guess everyone is loyal to the type of clippers that worked the best for them. I never had problems with any of my Laube's breaking down and used them for years. Maybe I was just lucky!  I did take really good care of them, keeping them clean and oiled. Plus I never used them on filthy dirty matted dogs. Whenever I got stuck with icky dogs I let my bather/brusher practice pre-clipping with my old cheap crappy clippers that I didn't care about! :-\"


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## Lynn Cheffins (Jul 11, 2006)

Maren I will ditto everyone else on the "don't shave" if at all possible advice. If you are having to bathe the dog frequently it might be worthwhile to just bathe the dog and put the clipper money towards a good force dryer like a Metro "Air Force" or the like. Bonus of the force dryer is that it drys the dog really fast and blows any dander or debris out of the coat.


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## Leslie Patterson (Mar 6, 2008)

Lynn Cheffins said:


> Maren I will ditto everyone else on the "don't shave" if at all possible advice. If you are having to bathe the dog frequently it might be worthwhile to just bathe the dog and put the clipper money towards a good force dryer like a Metro "Air Force" or the like. Bonus of the force dryer is that it drys the dog really fast and blows any dander or debris out of the coat.


Great suggestion! If I could only have one "tool" for grooming my dogs I would take a velocity dryer even over any brush. If you get a good one they blow all the undercoat out. I have a Metro Air Force Blaster, it is very powerful and very worth it to buy.


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Leslie Patterson said:


> Great suggestion! If I could only have one "tool" for grooming my dogs I would take a velocity dryer even over any brush. If you get a good one they blow all the undercoat out. I have a Metro Air Force Blaster, it is very powerful and very worth it to buy.


I had never even heard of this. It sounds GREAT.


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## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

We got a new medicated shampoo that's just out on the market recommended by the boarded dermatologist at the vet school. The problem is that it is expensive (I got one free sample as a vet student) and it also comes with a spray. I used over half the bottle just today because his fur is so thick and he will need several more treatments worth. I e-mailed the vet and asked him if clipping was a good idea. It's more so the medication can reach the skin, not really for drying purposes. It wouldn't be shaved down to the skin, just about 1/4 inch or so, perhaps slightly longer. I'm aware of the need to keep some on there for sun block purposes, although he's an inside dog and we usually only go on hikes these days right around sundown as he gets too hot and tired otherwise (he's getting pretty old).

His fur is in pretty poor shape anyways. He will lick large chunks of fur out, which are coming back in. The fur that is coming back in is actually much nicer in feeling and texture than what he has now. It's more what I remember a few years ago than his rather ragged coat. Yeah, I understand that normally clipping is not preferred (I get annoyed when people "do it for the summer"), but his coat is looking poor anyways (and yes, he gets lots of fish oil, vitamin E, etc). He also had a big part shaved down to the skin for the intradermal allergy testing, so he's already got a big patch missing.


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## Leslie Patterson (Mar 6, 2008)

I don't know if Metro has a website but this is one of their dryers

http://grooming.petedge.com/Metro-A...tegoryId=190&categoryId=191&subCategoryId=263


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## Leslie Patterson (Mar 6, 2008)

Maren Bell Jones said:


> We got a new medicated shampoo that's just out on the market recommended by the boarded dermatologist at the vet school. The problem is that it is expensive (I got one free sample as a vet student) and it also comes with a spray. I used over half the bottle just today because his fur is so thick and he will need several more treatments worth. I e-mailed the vet and asked him if clipping was a good idea. It's more so the medication can reach the skin, not really for drying purposes. It wouldn't be shaved down to the skin, just about 1/4 inch or so, perhaps slightly longer. I'm aware of the need to keep some on there for sun block purposes, although he's an inside dog and we usually only go on hikes these days right around sundown as he gets too hot and tired otherwise (he's getting pretty old).
> 
> His fur is in pretty poor shape anyways. He will lick large chunks of fur out, which are coming back in. The fur that is coming back in is actually much nicer in feeling and texture than what he has now. It's more what I remember a few years ago than his rather ragged coat. Yeah, I understand that normally clipping is not preferred (I get annoyed when people "do it for the summer"), but his coat is looking poor anyways (and yes, he gets lots of fish oil, vitamin E, etc). He also had a big part shaved down to the skin for the intradermal allergy testing, so he's already got a big patch missing.


Sounds like you have made up your mind already and it is your dog and your decision.

The velocity dryer isn't just a dryer. It will loosen up and blow out all the undercoat. You should also use it before the bath to push all the dead undercoat away from the skin so that the shampoo will get down to the skin. You can even use it in the bath with the shampoo on as the shampoo acts as a lubricant for the undercoat to come out, and of course after the bath to dry the dog and blow out the remaining undercoat. It will leave your dogs coat light and fluffy. Especially once you get the condition of your dogs coat under control and do it a few times.
There is also the option of going to a professional dog groomer. Many groomers use a bathing system which is like a high pressure wash and it gets right down to the skin.
There are also many medicated shampoos you can buy like at Pet Edge( USA), Rens Pets(CANADA) for example. I'd read the websites and find out which one you need, sounds like your dog needs a Tar & Sulfur shampoo and you can pick up a gallon, you might need something like this: (it's only $25.99 gal)
http://grooming.petedge.com/Bio-Gro...tegoryId=190&categoryId=213&subCategoryId=275
What kind of shampoo does your vet sell you?


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

Lynn Cheffins said:


> Maren I will ditto everyone else on the "don't shave" if at all possible advice. If you are having to bathe the dog frequently it might be worthwhile to just bathe the dog and put the clipper money towards a good force dryer like a Metro "Air Force" or the like. Bonus of the force dryer is that it drys the dog really fast and blows any dander or debris out of the coat.


Now THAT'S an EXCELLENT idea! A forced air dryer really is a pretty amazing tool. I suggest you go to one of those self-serve grooming places like "U Wash Doggie" and see if they have good forced air dryers. If they do, just try it out. Do a bath then blow him out. Or go to a grooming shop and ask if they will show you one of theirs so you can get an idea. If you don't think it does the trick, you can still buy some clippers, but if you like it - then hold out for a good Forced Air Dryer!


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## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

Is it any better than a Furminator? I don't want to get stuff that costs a bunch and doesn't work any better than what I already have. The local obedience/agility club has a self wash with that kind of dryer for $15. Perhaps I'll try it.

The shampoo I got from the teaching hospital is Duoxo Seborrhea Shampoo and Micro-Emulsion Spray. So basically you just have to bath them a few times a week for 2-3 weeks and then use the spray after. The community practice clinician heard good things from his dermatologist friends, so I'll stick with that. According to the label, it's available from licensed veterinarians only.


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## Lynn Cheffins (Jul 11, 2006)

Maren Bell Jones said:


> Is it any better than a Furminator?


Absolutley blows a Furminator away :lol: 
Even if you go with clipping your old dog a force dryer is great even for wet weather days with the plus that it is less work do de-shed a dog with one. My youngest puppy has discovered excavation and has to be routinely hosed off and blow dried before he can come in the house.

If you use a sprayer attachment to wet him down beforehand, and dilute your shampoo before you apply it you tend to get better coverage and get more mileage out of your shampoo also.


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## Connie Sutherland (Mar 27, 2006)

Lynn Cheffins said:


> Absolutley blows a Furminator away


OK, then, I am officially very impressed, because I loooove the Furminator!

This sounds great.


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## Anne Vaini (Mar 15, 2007)

I love Air Force dryers - amazing!

As far as clipping, it sounds like an Andis 2-Speed or OsterA5 with a #2 or #3 blade, or a #10 blade (more versatile) with a snap-on comb.

If you pay less than $200 for a clipper it will make you want to throw yourself into traffic.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

I always like my Oster A5 with a #10 blade when I was show grooming. 
A dog's coat doesn't grow like a humans. It grows in cycles. That's why it seem like it takes forever for a coat to grow back in. 
I use the Furminator, German rake and a steel comb (Greyhound brand) for my GSDs. 
The only dislike I have with the Furminator is that it doesn't hold on to the undercoat. It just builds up around me and blows all over the yard. The idea place to use it is in the middle of a field with a strong wind blowing. 
Grooming a long hair GSD sucks!


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

If you have a Furminator, or can borrow one, try taking that to him. And groom for a long time LOL You'd be surprised at how much hair it will take out, it might just get his hair to a manageable thickness without you having to shave him.


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## Anna Kasho (Jan 16, 2008)

A furminator is only an overpriced stripping knife wth a different handle... ;-) I have to admire the people who thought up the marketing ploy to charge $50 for it. If you try one and get a feel for how it works, you can try some stripping knves too and get one to match for under $10.

As far as comparing a force dryer to a furminator, they do completely different things. For one, a force dryer will blow hair, skin flakes, and other such crap all over the place - NOT good for using inside a house, unless you have a designated dog grooming room.  :???: It is great for cleaning and drying down to the skin, quickly. For skin infections the less moist and damp it stays, the better. A dryer also blows off what is loose but won't pull hair out. A furminator (or stripping knife) will pull out anything that is't firmly attached, more so than a dryer IMO. It can also scratch up skin and damage hair if used overzealously, so keep an eye on what you're doing...

Also, odd as it sounds, I found a vinegar rinse helps with my dogs' skin infections, both yeast and bacteria. They get ocasional stuff between their toes, or on top near the tail if I miss out on flea controll. I dab on a little apple-cider vinegar with a cotton ball, dry well, and the infections clear up in a few days. If you can stand the dog smelling like salad dressing for a bit though... :lol:


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## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

This was a *really* REALLY bad ear infection. He had a deep ear flush done and the tympanic membrane was already gone. The doctor who did it said it was like dirt was tamped down there. Blech. Basicallly when he was picked up as a stray by the local shelter, he had the worst hematoma on his ear that the vet at the shelter had ever seen, so it developed into basically cauliflower ear and holds in a bunch of moisture. So what I did was buy a pair of relatively inexpensive clippers and cleaning/lubricating/lubricating spray (Andis Pro Pet clippers that I got at the farm supply store for 20% off, plus it has detachable blades that are compatible with the Oster A5) and shave just around his ear that hangs and that is causing the problem. Hopefully this will allow more air to circulate as his ear that stands does not get infected. 

Although the doctor recommended it, I didn't end up having to clip his whole fur down close. A decent amount of fur came out with each wash with the special shampoo, so all I did was use the Furminator a bunch this week, which I already had. Next week, he's supposed to get sprayed with the follow up micro-emulsion spray to complete the treatment, but I can actually tell the shampoo has worked, shockingly enough.

Thanks everyone for the excellent suggestions, even though I didn't have to clip him much. I'll be on the lookout for good clippers in my future practice.


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