# Kennel Bedding



## Howard Gaines III

Any breeding material that is best for outside kennel use? I mix straw and cedar shavings, also use pine shavings but they blow out; in talking to folks at the farm store some look at pine needles as a best choice. Looking to limit any infections or skin conditions from damp material or bugs that like to hang out with the dogs...crushed corn cob material was another item.


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## Jessica Kromer

For a small, 10 x 10, 12 x 12 ish sized run, I used pine pellets that expand into sawdust when wetted down. Not for use with baby puppies as it could get in their eyes, mouths and noses, but for the older bunch that is walking and making a mess. 

The best method I found was to replace weekly, but scoop (like cat boxes) and stir/fluff the bedding three or four times daily. It coated the waste and kept the pups clean, and absorbed the urine easily. It is supposed to be kept very slightly damp, and doesn’t blow away too badly, but if allowed to be bone dry, it will be gone. Putting up solid walls along the fence line, about 12-18 inches tall, will keep the bedding in better. It is horse bedding, so can handle a lot of wet and is fairly economical for large areas… Again, not for pups that are still on their tummies… 

For a larger pen, the company also makes a great paddock conditioner, Dry Stall. It is a volcanic aggregate that allows for excellent drainage if this is a permanent puppy run on dirt. It is wonderful under any type of bedding you would choose. They ALSO make a great cedar bedding/Dry Stall (Cedar Dry) combo that is the best ever for large outdoor runs. The cedar will help with the flies, fleas and ticks as well and keep things draining for the long run. It is good stuff. It may blow in the wind a bit but solid bumpers around the pen would, again, prevent most of the loss. More so than pine shavings that can really catch air!

I have also used crushed corn cob, but it drains more than absorbing the wet. Also can be quite expensive… The pine needles may be slippery and not led well to cleaning or keeping clean.

For in the whelping box and for baby puppies, many fleece pads that can be picked up and washed daily, Bed-a-Pet (expensive and a PITA) or very fluffy pine shavings…


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## Carol Boche

I mix clean straw (a friend of mine bales it and stores it inside for me until delivery) with cedar as well. And I change it out every few days. 

I just got 160 bales of clean dry straw this year for $150. What I don't use this winter will go to Doug for the company to use to soak up water and what not on job sites, and I get 160 more next September. Same price. 

My dogs stay warm and dry in the winter weather. That is for sure, and for $150, I really can't beat it....


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## Kristen Cabe

I don't have anything on the ground in my outdoor runs, but I use straw in the dog houses and crates (everyone is put in a crate in the garage at night - I don't have fancy indoor/outdoor runs). I add to and replace as needed. Very low maintenance. A bale of straw costs around $4 and I buy one about once a month or sometimes once every 6 weeks, depending on how many dogs I've got. Two of my outdoor kennels are dirt and three are pea gravel.




Jessica Kromer said:


> For a small, 10 x 10, 12 x 12 ish sized run, I used pine pellets that expand into sawdust when wetted down. Not for use with baby puppies as it could get in their eyes, mouths and noses, but for the older bunch that is walking and making a mess. ... not for pups that are still on their tummies…


I used these to 'litterbox train' Deja's last litter and did not have any problems with the dust. But I didn't have it completely lining the entire whelping box/X-pen, either. It was in a Rubbermaid container lid in the whelping box and when they graduated from that to the X-pen, I used a tray that you put underneath washing machines. 

Laugh and make fun of me if you want, but I had clean puppies and clean floors! The only thing I'll do different next time is I'll use alfalfa pellets instead of pine because I had a hell of a time keeping them from going to the bathroom in the dog houses once they started staying outside!  :lol:


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## Connie Sutherland

Wouldn't they maybe try to eat alfalfa pellets?


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## Carol Boche

Kristen Cabe said:


> I don't have anything on the ground in my outdoor runs, but I use straw in the dog houses


should have clarified that as well in my post........straw is in the houses only.......


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## Jessica Kromer

Don't know about the alfalfa pellets, but the pine pellets are very dry and unappetizing. I saw a couple of pups pick them up before I fluffed them, but spit them right out. 

Wait. Are we talking out door run or whelping box? The wind blowing it away threw me off a little...


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## jay lyda

How about on the ground on the outside of your kennels. Does anyone have a problem with the ground staying wet and somewhat muddy from always washing out the kennels? I need to put something down around mine, any ideas? I have mostly grass around my kennels but the more traveled high traffic area has turned to soil and now wet soil.


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## Lynn Cheffins

Gravel in high traffic areas along fences, glide paths etc can really reduce the mud factor. Heavier gravel doesn't kick around as bad and keeps feet in good condition, also.

dog houses clean dry straw for winter, pine shavings for summer


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## Maren Bell Jones

I really like Woody Pet and Equine Fresh (soft wood based pellets) for the rat cages and the cat litter box. Not particularly soft though. Maybe try straw or aspen shavings (other kinds of soft wood shavings have been implemented with respiratory problems in lab animal species) on top and the pellets on the bottom to soak up the liquids. The pellets do an amazing job of soaking. Way better than expensive cat litter (only about $6-7 for a 40 lbs bag at the local farm store).


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## Carol Boche

jay lyda said:


> How about on the ground on the outside of your kennels. Does anyone have a problem with the ground staying wet and somewhat muddy from always washing out the kennels? I need to put something down around mine, any ideas? I have mostly grass around my kennels but the more traveled high traffic area has turned to soil and now wet soil.


We are in the process of putting in walkways....framed out with wood sides and then filled with pea gravel on top of thick black fabric.....I live with a contractor so it might get half done this year and then sit til next....UGH


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## Harry Keely

Howard Gaines III said:


> Any breeding material that is best for outside kennel use? I mix straw and cedar shavings, also use pine shavings but they blow out; in talking to folks at the farm store some look at pine needles as a best choice. Looking to limit any infections or skin conditions from damp material or bugs that like to hang out with the dogs...crushed corn cob material was another item.


Try building with 2 " x 12" boards sitting on there sides and nail the three panels sides together, side that is you door put a piano hinge or door hinges so that you can still open your panel gate. This should be enough ground level wind protection Howard. Good luck with it.:idea:


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## Jennifer Coulter

In our winter work kennels we just use straw. They only get day use, but there are dog in there 90 percent of the day. After reading Carol's post, I think my gut is correct and we should be changing it out much more often. 

The dogs go in covered with snow and it melts in there and the straw gets wet. Well, I should say it often doesn't feel wet, because it just freezes in there somewhere  It is surprisingly difficult to feel if something is wet in the winter unless there is ice on it.

When we do change the straw (embarassingly usually once a winter) there is a bunch of frozen straw stuck to the bottom of the kennel. I know the dogs are damp in there and that does not help them stay warm on the colder days.

Lynn, how often do those sled dogs of yours get new straw in the winter?

I am going to try to do better by our dogs this year. Getting the straw, storing it, and then getting it to the locations of the kennels is a hassel at work, but one that can be managed.


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## Kristen Cabe

Connie Sutherland said:


> Wouldn't they maybe try to eat alfalfa pellets?


Yeah, probably. But it won't hurt them, and will (hopefully - in theory at least) teach them to potty on grass instead of in the doghouse! :lol:

I actually give both Deja and Naccia alfalfa every day, FYI.


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## Bob Scott

I use prairee straw inside the dog houses. Don't really know what it's made up with but it's a lot cleaner then straw. No seeds or chaff in it.
When I had a yard big enought that the dogs ran loose most of the time I would put straw on the different paths they ran to keep from making a mud mess.


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## Howard Gaines III

jay lyda said:


> How about on the ground on the outside of your kennels. Does anyone have a problem with the ground staying wet and somewhat muddy from always washing out the kennels? I need to put something down around mine, any ideas? I have mostly grass around my kennels but the more traveled high traffic area has turned to soil and now wet soil.


Jay I went to Lowe's and got some broken bags of pea gravel for half price. The water drains and the mud isn't all over me. The dogs have concrete runs and most of the water runs to the back. And the grass can grow in the gravel in the spring...

Sounds like I need to send the goose down throws back to LL Bean and let my dogs get tough!!! They are working dogs...


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## jay lyda

I had thought about framing up a border and putting some rocks down as Carol mentioned. Sounds like thats the best way to go.............looks like I have another job added to the list. LOL


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## Lynn Cheffins

"Lynn, how often do those sled dogs of yours get new straw in the winter?"

about once a week I change the straw in the dog boxes on the truck and about the same for the dog houses - I top it up about once a week in them. The dogboxes get damp from condensation mostly so I try to change it right out - the houses I usually just add some. I go thru alot of straw in the winter :lol: - half of the fun is watching the dogs as they always get really excited when they get fresh straw - straw party!


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## Jennifer Coulter

Lynn Cheffins said:


> "Lynn, how often do those sled dogs of yours get new straw in the winter?"
> 
> about once a week I change the straw in the dog boxes on the truck and about the same for the dog houses - I top it up about once a week in them. The dogboxes get damp from condensation mostly so I try to change it right out - the houses I usually just add some. I go thru alot of straw in the winter :lol: - half of the fun is watching the dogs as they always get really excited when they get fresh straw - straw party!



Thanks Lynn. We do "top up" several times a winter, but I am going to make an effort to switch things out completely more often.


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## Michelle Reusser

jay lyda said:


> How about on the ground on the outside of your kennels. Does anyone have a problem with the ground staying wet and somewhat muddy from always washing out the kennels? I need to put something down around mine, any ideas? I have mostly grass around my kennels but the more traveled high traffic area has turned to soil and now wet soil.


 
I have a huge slab and can walk on concrete back to the house for 2 kennels but the long run is dirt with shavings held in by the boards as others have suggested. Outside the gate on both ends the dogs have torn up sliding in and out at 100mph. I used those cheap 1/1 brick pavers in a path and small pad out front and the more expensive decorative blocks that fit together in differnt sizes and colors as a pad on the back gate.


cheaper
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=19184-39241-608841RED&lpage=none

nicer
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=182094-215-156315550&lpage=none


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## Harry Keely

Michelle Kehoe said:


> I have a huge slab and can walk on concrete back to the house for 2 kennels but the long run is dirt with shavings held in by the boards as others have suggested. Outside the gate on both ends the dogs have torn up sliding in and out at 100mph. I used those cheap 1/1 brick pavers in a path and small pad out front and the more expensive decorative blocks that fit together in differnt sizes and colors as a pad on the back gate.
> 
> 
> cheaper
> http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=19184-39241-608841RED&lpage=none
> 
> nicer
> http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=182094-215-156315550&lpage=none


Michelle,
Serious question for you, using those blocks do the dogs tear there paws up, also what about the fecal matter getting in the cracks and how do you avoid diseases? ( asking because have been researching differing kennel floors for some new kennels we are going to be putting up ).:-D


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## Michelle Reusser

Harry Keely said:


> Michelle,
> Serious question for you, using those blocks do the dogs tear there paws up, also what about the fecal matter getting in the cracks and how do you avoid diseases? ( asking because have been researching differing kennel floors for some new kennels we are going to be putting up ).:-D


Well I don't have those issues because the blocks are on the (outside) of the kennel. I think that is what Jay was asking about??? To and from the kennel in question is dirt or grass that gets wet when he washed the kennels out. But I have seen people use the 1x1 pavers inside kennels. I even thought about it before I laid concrete. I didn't really worry about pads, more so their elbows from laying on it but that can be solved with a small wood deck or dog hamock like they use at animal control facilities. There are so many kinds of blocks with different textures, find one that is smooth to your touch and then seal with a concrete sealer. Helps keep bacteria out of the pourus stuff and clean up easier. You can either use sand or grout depending on wants, needs and your degree of permanence. I just use bleach for killing odors and germs on the concrete.

I have never bleached or disinfected my dirt run but have tried many differnt floorings, sand, gravel, shavings and like shavings best. Pea gravel sticks to poop and ends up in the garbage in time, the sand just disapeared into our clay soil but the shavings soak up the urin, keep the smell down, bugs at bay, mud isn't an issue anymore and it is comfortable for the dogs. In the summer I wet it down to tame the dust and keep the dogs cool. I use a mixture of pine and cedar, for smell and comfort.


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## Guest

Michelle Kehoe said:


> Well I don't have those issues because the blocks are on the (outside) of the kennel. I think that is what Jay was asking about??? To and from the kennel in question is dirt or grass that gets wet when he washed the kennels out. But I have seen people use the 1x1 pavers inside kennels. I even thought about it before I laid concrete. I didn't really worry about pads, more so their elbows from laying on it but that can be solved with a small wood deck or dog hamock like they use at animal control facilities. There are so many kinds of blocks with different textures, find one that is smooth to your touch and then seal with a concrete sealer. Helps keep bacteria out of the pourus stuff and clean up easier. You can either use sand or grout depending on wants, needs and your degree of permanence. I just use bleach for killing odors and germs on the concrete.
> 
> I have never bleached or disinfected my dirt run but have tried many differnt floorings, sand, gravel, shavings and like shavings best. Pea gravel sticks to poop and ends up in the garbage in time, the sand just disapeared into our clay soil but the shavings soak up the urin, keep the smell down, bugs at bay, mud isn't an issue anymore and it is comfortable for the dogs. In the summer I wet it down to tame the dust and keep the dogs cool. I use a mixture of pine and cedar, for smell and comfort.


Agree with you on all the different types of bedding you used and the downfalls of each one. I've tried those 12" x 12" block and liked them at first, I did have a PVC type bed so the dog could lay on. (HE DIDN'T he chewed it up) Anyways, there wasn't too many issues, however if they are placed too close together, its hard to clean stool in the cracks and urine holds in those areas, if too far apart, again hard to get stool out, however urine drains great.

I have concrete runs, but will probably never do it again, unless I build an actual kennel facility. I use 1" x 4" pressure treated decking from the local hardware store up on 4" x 4" boards. I utilize a wood pencil or 1/2" between boards to allow for drainage of urine. Stool on occasion will drop below the boards, but seldom and no biggie. Every so often, I throw hydrated lime below the decking to facilitate in odor and breakdown. There is less smell than concrete, dogs are much cleaner and I sure enjoy BOTH.

In there houses, I use the same decking boards, it gets them off of a surface and elevated for circulation. (If they are wet, helps drying, if it is hot, it helps in keeping cool. 

This is what I personally found best after trying all above mentioned items and others. Pea Gravel was all over the place and soon in trash with stool.......everything else was worse........

JB


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## Konnie Hein

Hey Jody - have you thought about using the plastic trex decking instead of wood? I wondered about using that, but did rock instead.

When I decided on rock/gravel for my runs, I had one thing in mind and my husband ordered something else. He ordered 1-3 inch stone and I wanted 3/4. 
http://www.haynesmaterials.com/decorativeStoneList.php (it's the upper delaware stuff in this link)

I was pretty pissed at first that he ordered the larger stuff, but it has worked out OK. I cleared/leveled the ground, put down landscape fabric and then put mesh over that before putting the rock down. It is a pain in the ass to pick loose stool out of (or really to pick poop out of in general), so I use bleach and a hose to clean up stuff like that. I put a stall mat in each run to give the dogs a break from the rocks. It was pretty hard on their feet at first, but they've adapted. The larger rock doesn't get kicked out of the runs and it's not as easy for them to dig through (although they still try, which is why I put mesh under it). I was thinking of topping the larger rock with the 3/4 gravel I originally wanted, but I can see that disappearing into the poop pail just the same as pea gravel would. So for now, I'll stick with the 1-3 inch rock.


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## Jennifer Coulter

Jody Butler said:


> I use 1" x 4" pressure treated decking from the local hardware store up on 4" x 4" boards. I utilize a wood pencil or 1/2" between boards to allow for drainage of urine. Stool on occasion will drop below the boards, but seldom and no biggie. Every so often, I throw hydrated lime below the decking to facilitate in odor and breakdown. There is less smell than concrete, dogs are much cleaner and I sure enjoy BOTH.
> 
> In there houses, I use the same decking boards, it gets them off of a surface and elevated for circulation. (If they are wet, helps drying, if it is hot, it helps in keeping cool.
> 
> JB


Any pictures of this Jody? I know what pressure treated decking looks like of course...just want to see the big picture.


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## Guest

Konnie Hein said:


> Hey Jody - have you thought about using the plastic trex decking instead of wood? I wondered about using that, but did rock instead.
> 
> When I decided on rock/gravel for my runs, I had one thing in mind and my husband ordered something else. He ordered 1-3 inch stone and I wanted 3/4.
> http://www.haynesmaterials.com/decorativeStoneList.php (it's the upper delaware stuff in this link)
> 
> I was pretty pissed at first that he ordered the larger stuff, but it has worked out OK. I cleared/leveled the ground, put down landscape fabric and then put mesh over that before putting the rock down. It is a pain in the ass to pick loose stool out of (or really to pick poop out of in general), so I use bleach and a hose to clean up stuff like that. I put a stall mat in each run to give the dogs a break from the rocks. It was pretty hard on their feet at first, but they've adapted. The larger rock doesn't get kicked out of the runs and it's not as easy for them to dig through (although they still try, which is why I put mesh under it). I was thinking of topping the larger rock with the 3/4 gravel I originally wanted, but I can see that disappearing into the poop pail just the same as pea gravel would. So for now, I'll stick with the 1-3 inch rock.


 
I did think of that, but never actually tried. I am actually happy with the decking I got on one run, the others are concrete. The stall mats, I had in the houses before, however I prefer as well as the dogs the elevated decking. 

As far as their pads, the concrete block, slab, decking, rocks, etc.......it may be difficult at first, but if you can look past that, it only makes them stronger. Just it would yourself walking barefoot, so it actually is better for a training aspect.

I much rather build there feet, rather than let them stand in water, wet surface, poop and urine. Ya know. 

I am sure there are better things out there, but I am happy with what I got now and dogs are doing great. (Minus the shit eater still at 17 months


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## Harry Keely

Konnie Hein said:


> Hey Jody - have you thought about using the plastic trex decking instead of wood? I wondered about using that, but did rock instead.
> 
> When I decided on rock/gravel for my runs, I had one thing in mind and my husband ordered something else. He ordered 1-3 inch stone and I wanted 3/4.
> http://www.haynesmaterials.com/decorativeStoneList.php (it's the upper delaware stuff in this link)
> 
> I was pretty pissed at first that he ordered the larger stuff, but it has worked out OK. I cleared/leveled the ground, put down landscape fabric and then put mesh over that before putting the rock down. It is a pain in the ass to pick loose stool out of (or really to pick poop out of in general), so I use bleach and a hose to clean up stuff like that. I put a stall mat in each run to give the dogs a break from the rocks. It was pretty hard on their feet at first, but they've adapted. The larger rock doesn't get kicked out of the runs and it's not as easy for them to dig through (although they still try, which is why I put mesh under it). I was thinking of topping the larger rock with the 3/4 gravel I originally wanted, but I can see that disappearing into the poop pail just the same as pea gravel would. So for now, I'll stick with the 1-3 inch rock.


Konnie,
Have researched the hell out of this trex is the best but at 23 dollars for a 12 footer or 43 dollars for a 20 footer. It gets expensive real real fast. Just the decking for a 10x20' would be close to $1000 not including the sub base material and cost to mount the trex to. The pressure treated if it is treateded has arsenic in it ( highly poisionous to animals, even humans ), concrete tears them up which turns into extra vet bills. So what is the best deal in the long run, whos to say?:?:


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## Bob Scott

What is the general thinking on 3/4 minus for the kennel run? Does it drain well even after it's been packed a bit?


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## Konnie Hein

Harry Keely said:


> Konnie,
> Have researched the hell out of this trex is the best but at 23 dollars for a 12 footer or 43 dollars for a 20 footer. It gets expensive real real fast. Just the decking for a 10x20' would be close to $1000 not including the sub base material and cost to mount the trex to.


Dang, Harry. That is expensive! I paid between $500-600 for my 1-3" rock (6 tons), and that was enough to do my 3 kennels and the area surrounding them. 

I have some pieces of the trex laying around from a project my husband did at his side-job. Not enough to do an entire kennel, but I was thinking of using it to build a resting platform in one of the kennels.


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