# Targeting Bicep Bites



## Mari Steward (Mar 3, 2008)

How doing I go about re-enforcing bite targeting of the bicep? I have just started to teach my dog bicep bites and I want to hear from everyone what training methodologies that they use.

THANKS


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

Mari we do bicep targets by reversing the puppy bite sleeve on the arm. If you present the left side, the right arm is hidden and you dip into the bite. The handler has to keep downward leash control to prevent face bites. Look at my mug shot, no damage...


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## mitch kuta (Mar 5, 2007)

What are you doing right now and what are you using?


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

Right now I'm on the computer...:twisted: You take a full puppy grade sleeve, jute all the way and turn it around. Pull it up to create a bicep bar. Takes guts...:roll:


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## Kris Finison (Nov 26, 2007)

I'm assuming you're talking about your dog's targeting on the tricep, not targeting a dog on your tricep as a decoy?

What we do is to put the dog on a long line attached to the harness or flat collar. The decoy comes out, does their agitation and the dog is given the attack command. The dog then "drags" to the decoy. The long line is eased out as the handler walks (allowing the dog to move out ahead towards the decoy, but with seriously retarded speed.)
This allows the decoy to really work the dog up while they're dragging towards him as well as giving them time to really set up and show the dog the tricep and virtually place it in the dogs mouth so they can learn where they are expected to bite. It also gives the dog plenty of time to analyze and place their bite correctly.
As the dog performs better the long line is let out faster during the drag and can be dropped within the last 5 feet, then 10 feet, etc.

Hope that helps a bit. :smile:


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## Mari Steward (Mar 3, 2008)

Kris Finison said:


> I'm assuming you're talking about your dog's targeting on the tricep, not targeting a dog on your tricep as a decoy?
> 
> What we do is to put the dog on a long line attached to the harness or flat collar. The decoy comes out, does their agitation and the dog is given the attack command. The dog then "drags" to the decoy. The long line is eased out as the handler walks (allowing the dog to move out ahead towards the decoy, but with seriously retarded speed.)
> This allows the decoy to really work the dog up while they're dragging towards him as well as giving them time to really set up and show the dog the tricep and virtually place it in the dogs mouth so they can learn where they are expected to bite. It also gives the dog plenty of time to analyze and place their bite correctly.
> ...


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

Mari Steward said:


> When it comes to the fight from the front (with sports ike PSA and APPDA) he will need to bust throgh the moving arms and the various distractions that may be in the decoys hands and force a bite on the bicep.


Why? I understand busting through the articles to get to the bite, but why bust through/past a bitable surface, to get to another one? Why not just take the first target available to the dog?


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## Mari Steward (Mar 3, 2008)

Kadi Thingvall said:


> Why? I understand busting through the articles to get to the bite, but why bust through/past a bitable surface, to get to another one? Why not just take the first target available to the dog?


Kadi,

You make a fine point. I ahave heard so many things from different trainers. I have also spoken to decoys and judges from various sports and they have told me that the expect a dog to take the bicep bite even though it was not presented. A dog is given high points on bite work for it's ability to take the bicep effectively. 

I have seen in done on the PSA DVD od the 2006 national championship. The best of the upper level dogs effectively broke through distrctions and take the bicep bite. I suspect this possible by constant practice.


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## Kris Finison (Nov 26, 2007)

Mari Steward said:


> Kris,
> 
> That is some good advice on teach a dog to target the tricep. However, for some reason, my dog has no problem with tricep bites. Perhaps it is becuase there is a better target when biting from behind and it is easier for him to grab the tricep. When it comes to the fight from the front (with sports ike PSA and APPDA) he will need to bust throgh the moving arms and the various distractions that may be in the decoys hands and force a bite on the bicep. Sometimes it is difficult for him to grab the bicep under those cirsumtances. What I want to know is what I can do to practice for this style of decoying. How can I build up on getting strong cnfident bicep bites every time. .


While I haven't done any bicep bite target training personally, I mentioned our tricep technique as all that needs to be changed was the decoy turning around. I imagine it would actually be easier for the decoy to help your dog as he will be facing you and will be able to get better placement of the bite in the beginning.
As I haven't worked on these yet, I would say I'd work with your decoy. I can't say honestly what to do in a 1-on-1 session with only you and your dog. Hopefully someone else can chime in here and offer a suggestion on that.


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