# How do you prepare your dog on the protection-work of SchH?



## Saskia Stark (Nov 15, 2006)

Do you train parts off the protection work at home? 
For example: biting on a sleeve, 
the hold and bark, 
coming to heel: away from the prey, 
the escape, 
the guard/hold after the out command (how do you call that, if the dog outs and need to focus on the helper?) 
the side-transport, 
and the courage test?
Or don't you train this at all at home, but only on the trainingfield with the helper?


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

I really think this depends on what you are really looking for, as well as if you are experienced enough as a decoy to accomplish this.

I do not believe if you want the defence oriented style of protection work that they like in Sch, you should work your own dog in bitework.

This also depends on the dog you have at hand. Some dogs can't really be worked in defence very much, or at all due to the thresholds for defence/avoidance being too close. Too many new people do not realize this, and assume that all dogs can magically be balanced out in the drives with enough work. If your dog is difficult to get into defence, he/she will doubtfully become any different, as the threshold cannot really be lowered. Most attempts to do so invoke avoidance. This threshold can be lowered, and really sucks when you do that.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

My dog's Schutzhund bite work is ALL on the training field. He's social, civil and has a nice sharpness to him. 
I don't want to ruin any of that by creating an untrusting monster.
I'm his training partner. The helper is the bad guy, not his playmate.


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## Saskia Stark (Nov 15, 2006)

Funny, I do train all this at home. And yes: I also know that I am the one who is responsible for my dog's extreme prey drive. :lol: 
But even though I would do it again with a new dog. It makes it a lot easier for me and my dog, because everything he has to do on the trainingfield is already familiar for him. Offcourse his reactions by the real helper are a little difference, he's even more in drive so the obedience parts are tougher.

I just don't do the long distance with him anymore, he will knock me off my feet...  
Only a short distance, like 3 meter... :lol:


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

Quote: I also know that I am the one who is responsible for my dog's extreme prey drive.

Well, genetics are responsible for that. You are probably partly responsible for the affixiation he has with prey drive. :lol: 

Remember that while it makes it easy to teach, you are also conditioning the prey response, and not necessarily what a good decoy would.


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## Hil Harrison (Mar 29, 2006)

Saskia Stark said:


> Funny, I do train all this at home. And yes: I also know that I am the one who is responsible for my dog's extreme prey drive. :lol:
> But even though I would do it again with a new dog. It makes it a lot easier for me and my dog, because everything he has to do on the trainingfield is already familiar for him. Offcourse his reactions by the real helper are a little difference, he's even more in drive so the obedience parts are tougher.
> 
> I just don't do the long distance with him anymore, he will knock me off my feet...
> Only a short distance, like 3 meter... :lol:


Sas.......do you have a sleeve at home or a bite roll?


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## Saskia Stark (Nov 15, 2006)

Both... :wink: 
My instructor (Dirk) gave me my own sleeve.

That has already been very usefull for several things. Just the point is that I keep him in prey. :roll:


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## Mike Schoonbrood (Mar 27, 2006)

I just play tug, make sure the grips are full and holds it nice instead of chewing n thrashing around. Everything else is left to the training field, I train whenever I have 2 hours to spare, 3, 4 or 5 times a week sometimes, so I'm not worried about having to do anything myself. I teach her to sit n bark for the tug/food, down and bark, heeling, work on grips, sits and downs, just basic simple stuff. She's a natural at heeling, it's taken me almost a year to get 10 steps of focus from Cujo n it took me 2 minutes to get her to figure out that she has to walk by my side and look up to be allowed to eat her dinner :lol:


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

To be successful and get great scores I would train for the game. Do small pieces of the bite work and do only that. Then put it together. I would not mix SCH and PP if you are trying to title the dog. And I would make sure you have a great decoy/trainer. Remember, it is a sport...and you are graded on how well your dog does in the robotic manner of it. Protection is just one of three areas. Minor screw ups will not kill you.


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

Howard, We'll see how what you say will work for I am training both PPD and Sch with my female Lexus. I'm going to get or hope to get her BH in Feb.( she'll get it )


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

Jerry,
Here's wishing you the BEST! What a big slice to put on your plate!


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

I don't think it's all that big a deal. What I did do was teach Sch tracking first so that she understands nose down. Area searches is easier because of the bite afterwards. 

I'll let you know how the BH turns out. I'm excited........


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## Frank Phillips (Jan 8, 2008)

Saskia

I believe you can "imprint" these behaviors at home, so it is easier for the dog to learn in a lower drive, but I do not teach this with a sleeve. I use a Gappay 3 handle bite pillow or a tug. In my opinion the sleeve should be left for the "fight" with the helper. When the dog knows the exercise and you bring it to the helper, I believe you should stop doing that fun/prey exercise at home. I believe some dogs will never show the intensity/power that is needed in schutzhund if this is done at home in prey all the time. Why should the dog fight for it twice a week when they will get it at home every day without having to fight for it. Most dogs, protection work should NOT be done everyday. I love ice cream but if I eat it everyday, sooner or later my desire, intensity and drive for it will decrease  Just my opinion...

Frank


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