# Pupdate: Wants to eat a whip??



## Ted White (May 2, 2006)

Pup update:

Was tugging with the pup who loves this activity. Cracked the whip next to him and he went nuts to get the whip. Lost all interest in the rag and was crazy foolish to get at that whip. I cracked it several times and he was just a nut. He could see it was moving. 

Obviously unphased by the sound, but what is to be made of that reaction to the whip?


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## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

Prey Drive


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## Ted White (May 2, 2006)

so it's just prey drive re-directed to the whip? Man, I haven't seen him that crazy for anything.


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

What's the reason for the whip cracking?


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## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

I have seen it a few times. The biggest prey item at the time was the whip, hence his drive was redirected to it. I work with a female that is 8 months old you does that for a whip clatter stick whatever. She has nice full grips all the time and auctually has a small problem with getting the tug back but show her the whip or stick and its over she wants that.


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## Ted White (May 2, 2006)

That sounds like it exactly, Greg. Susan, I was curious what he would do is all.


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## Bryan Colletti (Feb 16, 2007)

This is a 10 week old pup correct? First fire works, now whips cracking at him. What is next for socializing, a nice walk in the mine fields of Iraq?

Ted you need to slow down, you are a mistake away from ruining this pup. One errant whip to the eye and this pup will never forget that memory.

Targeting for the toy is essential. He needs to understand a toy the minute he sees one, associate that with play. If you make a whip a toy, you have a big targeting problem and taught an undesireable behavior. 


You will see a Ring 3, IPO 3 run down the field and bite sticks, whips and guns.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

To me, the whip is a tool for the decoy only, it his signal the dog that action is now starting. There is no need for a handler to desensitize a puppy to the whip, clatter stick yes. I believe the two offer different responses from dogs, at least I get two different responses.

Ted if you were in my club, you would have to sit in your car right now with the dunce cap on, and I train your puppy for the day


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## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

Ya Ted I seriously have to agree with Bryan, while my original statement is correct about it triggering his prey drives, you need to relax and let him be a pup. To the same note though dont completly stop. I missed out of crucial oppourtunities to socialize my young 4 month old female due to the fact that I had another new dog that I was trying to bond with. 

To be honest I would maybe stop ragging the pup at this stage as well. You are already the center of the dogs world so maybe start showing him that fun play in the form of tugging can come from others as well. Its his first contact to the helper, dont know if this is something that you are already doing or not. I think its crucial at this age to decide what your goals are for the pup and be realistic about what it will take to acheive them.


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## Archie David (Apr 4, 2007)

Here's my contribution if I may..

Pup was tugging and the noise took out his focus on the tug. At that time, like what Mr. Greg Leavitt said, the biggest item that time was the whip, adding my guess to his is that the whip was likewise more animated than the tug. The pup would naturally go for the item with more prey movement.

Regarding the introduction of noise, I normally do this seperate with bitework (unless the prospect exhibits a high dose of drive for the tug). Still (even with a high driven pup), I would rather take things one step at a time. I just don't like the risk of having the pup associate something negative during intro of bitework. Their *focus* on the intended prey item can likewise be affected.

In my case, I start noise introduction very slowly and do this specially during feeding time (even while they are still nursing). I don't know if my logic is sound but I feel that even if you do screw up in introducing stress stimuli to the pup, it's fear of it will be overridden by its basic instinct to feed.


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## Hil Harrison (Mar 29, 2006)

Ted.........I have to agree with Gregg and Bryan here. I wouldn't go too fast with the pup its only 10-11 weeks old. Sure, do some tugging and stuff and get him used to noises in the area on a daily basis, but if an "experiment" did go wrong at this age hes screwed over and its gonna be real hard to get him back in line if at all.

The pup sounds like a good dog, so I would just leave him be a pup for some time yet and start charging him up on stuff like that when hes mentally old enough to take it. Look at babys/kids........you dont expect them to be able to run before they can first crawl, stand up and walk. Pups need the same fases too. I'd sure slow down there or it could backfire.


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## Ted White (May 2, 2006)

All good advise. Thanks for taking a minute to give me your thoughts. And I can't disagree, obviously.


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## Ted White (May 2, 2006)

Bryan,

Is that mine field socialization something you'd recommend? I'll check the schedule...


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