# Training reliable recall when decoy present ...



## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Well we are at that stage of the training. Frankly it kind of concerns me. My girl is over the top with drive to bite the decoy. We are calling her 'out' easily enough and she goes into 'couche guard' easily. Up to this point I have only been going up and retrieving her from the decoy myself. 

I have been using a whistle for her recall and have been prepping her for recall with it since September or so. We tried to use our whistle a couple of weeks ago while she was working the decoy, even after she outs she still wants to engage the decoy even if the out is clean and clear. No matter how hard we blow the whistle and even the decoy will have a whistle and blows it in her face, she takes it as a challenge and wants to fight the decoy again. 

Needless to say our coach has us put a long line on her and we are using compulsion to bring her back not letting her have a choice in the matter. 

I've included 2 links to our training this these are actually from the first night we tried to introduce this. The first vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3JePc1ze0k is without the long line on the fursaver the second is with, the second vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d74_C12Ifjo is the 3rd or 4th attack so she is probably complying better as she is starting to get fatigued. 

I really would like to keep the compulsion down if I can. I've tried offering her recall and bigger grip building tugs but she is still fixated on our friendly neighbourhood Michelin Man. Or is this exercise always going to have some form of compulsion until she figures it out? Or am I worrying about it for nothing? Any suggestions? Outside of offering a 2nd decoy! :lol:


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Since we train in the sport of Schutzhund we aren't interested in a dog that bites a passive decoy. When doing a long bite/courage test we have the dog sit next to us without being held. The helper runs at, screams at, even calls the dog to him. The dog can't leave until the handler gives the command. If the dog breaks, the hepler goes passive, even dropping the sleeve (depending on the dog ) and the handler gives a "FOOEY". It doesn't take long before the dog realizes that the only way to the bite is with the handler's command. 
Could you decoy go passive? Even if the dog engages, most enjoy the fight and will back off with no fight. This has worked with all our dogs. 
We use no physical compulsion at all in out training.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

I was wondering about that. I think that even if our Decoy blows his whistle she is still taking it as a challenge. It's probably confusing to her. I'm going to ask to have the decoy go totally passive once she outs. Then she what happens when I recall her next session. Then reward her with decoy re-animation/re-engagement once she is in heel position. That makes sense to me, lets see if it works on this particular dog.


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## Kyle Sprag (Jan 10, 2008)

the out and recall doesn't look all that bad for the first few times. I would be concerned about working the dog to satisfaction with that grip with the eyes inside. Even in the first bite she looked a bit confused with the entry. JMO

I think the long line to help guide her back will work just fine. We have even done the out guard out guard and then recall but need to mix it up so the dog will always Guard and not recall automaticaly.


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## Chris Wild (Jan 30, 2008)

Also a SchH person, but this might help.

One exercise in SchH is to call the dog out of an active, barking guard on the helper, back to heel position next to the handler. So a similar situation.

When teaching the call back, we have the dog on a long line, give the command and then use the line to reel the dog back to us. Once the dog is back in heel position, we order the helper to step forward, he walks up to us, and gives the dog a bite. Some minor compulsion is often needed the first few times in order to get the dog to leave the helper and return to the handler. But before long the dog figures out that when he's recalled, the bite will happen back where the handler is, and the quickest and surest way to get a bite is to get his butt back to the handler.

So I'd try doing sort of what you're already doing with the long line and rewarding her for coming back to you, but since she's fixated on the decoy, make the decoy the reward.. and the reward happens back at recall position, not out in the field.


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## Kyle Sprag (Jan 10, 2008)

To add I believe there needs to be a element of compulsion with the whistle. To me the whistle means STOP! and get your azz back NOW!

You are going to need to use it for the Stopped attack one day and that decoy agitating and moving around is a Hell of a lot more interesting than Anything you will ever be able to create as a Positive yourself for getting him/her back.


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## jay lyda (Apr 10, 2006)

Try this...have her on a long line about 15' away from you. When you give the out command the decoy must lock up and be still. After she outs have the decoy SLOWLY take a step or two back. If she engages on the slow movement correct her, if not then give her the recall command after the decoy has stepped back. Try it first without the correction, give your command or blow the whistle. Get her back to you and when she is in the position that you want then send her for her reward bite and then repeat everything again. This is just taking the threat of the decoy out of the picture, in time when she understands the exercise then the decoy can slowly get closer back to her. Also if your command for the recall is the whistle then only you blow it, not the decoy. This should take a lot of the conflict out and give her a clearer picture of what she is suppose to do. Good luck.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Thanks everybody I'll put the suggestions to our coach and see what he thinks we should try first. 

I agree Kyle the whistle has to be automatic, there can't be any other outcome except for a speedy recall. When I see her still wanting to engage the decoy it just fills my head with 'oh no' she is building bad habits. 

I still like the idea about the training decoy going totally passive/limp after the initial out and letting me the handler handle her without interaction from the decoy. I see her outs and she is good, the extra stuff from the training decoy just amps her up.


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## Kyle Sprag (Jan 10, 2008)

It's hard, think about it this way. We teach out guard reward bite, out guard reward bite.......

Now you introduce something new, out return...........WHAT! you want me to leave the reward?

Always have a tug ready for a game for the return, even though it is not more exciting than the decoy, it IMO is a better alternative than nothing.


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## Chris Wild (Jan 30, 2008)

Kyle Sprag said:


> It's hard, think about it this way. We teach out guard reward bite, out guard reward bite.......
> 
> Now you introduce something new, out return...........WHAT! you want me to leave the reward?
> 
> Always have a tug ready for a game for the return, even though it is not more exciting than the decoy, it IMO is a better alternative than nothing.


Absolutely. To the dog it makes no sense to leave the most rewarding object around. That's why I like having the helper/decoy walk over to the recall position and give the reward there. It helps eliminate a lot of the conflict by not just rewarding the dog for the recall, but rewarding with the reward the dog really wants. Much better reward for the dog than just a tug. 

Sending the dog for a bite after it recalls can work too, but I've found with some dogs it still creates some conflict because the action (bite) will happen out where the helper/decoy already is... the spot the handler is asking the dog to leave. Giving the bite back where the handler is asking the dog to go to, raises the dog's incentive to get to that spot.


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## Kyle Sprag (Jan 10, 2008)

Chris Wild said:


> Absolutely. To the dog it makes no sense to leave the most rewarding object around. That's why I like having the helper/decoy walk over to the recall position and give the reward there. It helps eliminate a lot of the conflict by not just rewarding the dog for the recall, but rewarding with the reward the dog really wants. Much better reward for the dog than just a tug.
> 
> Sending the dog for a bite after it recalls can work too, but I've found with some dogs it still creates some conflict because the action (bite) will happen out where the helper/decoy already is... the spot the handler is asking the dog to leave. Giving the bite back where the handler is asking the dog to go to, raises the dog's incentive to get to that spot.


 
I agree this can work but IMO the dog needs to learn that it is OK to leave what it wants most. In trial you will see a dog return, not see the decoy reward and go back or start head hunting if great care is not taken. Compulsion coupled with a compromise reward is better I think.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

We also train the callout from the blind without any physical control on the dog. The recall has to be VERY solid under numerous distractions. Once the dog returns to basic and gives eye contact, it gets rewarded with a bite. Just as doing a sendout with a drop, the callout is used only a few times before a trial to be sure the dog understands. Again, as with the sendout, if the down is given to often, the dog will start anticipating. The callout from the blind is the sam. We only do it a few times in the weeks previous to the trial.
It all revolves around a solid recall!


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Kyle Sprag said:


> It's hard, think about it this way. We teach out guard reward bite, out guard reward bite.......
> 
> Now you introduce something new, out return...........WHAT! you want me to leave the reward?
> 
> Always have a tug ready for a game for the return, even though it is not more exciting than the decoy, it IMO is a better alternative than nothing.


Yeah we have tried that and she is still pretty fixated on the decoy. It is not unsurmountable by any means once I can remove the conflict of her not wanting to leave the decoy. Remember she is still a young dog who has only started biting the decoy in the last couple months. 

I'm thinking to try an orbee ball or maybe use a set of old pair of beaten up spare bite suit pants that the club has, to make the reward for the recall a better trade at the handler end. 

Then once she is back to heel position reanimate the decoy, rinse and repeat. She is a smart dog once it is clear to her she will remember it.


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

You might also try having a second decoy for the reward. Although if she will do it for food/toy this IMO is better. But if that's not enough, have a second decoy who is hidden somewhere behind you. When she getst back to you after the out/recall from the first decoy, pivot around and send her to bite the second one, who steps out from their hiding spot when you start to pivot. This will keep her coming back to you but prevent her from getting to you then immediately bailing to head back to the first decoy for her reward bite, because she doesn't see the "reward decoy" and doesn't know where he is (change up where he's hiding).

I do this, but I also utilize the long line or electric for the out/recall. They get rewarded for doing it right, but also will be corrected for doing it wrong. However, I start the out/recall when they are babies, on the tug or leg sleeve, so once they are on the suit they already understand the concept, at which point IMO compulsion is acceptable.

Another thing I do with my young dogs who are just learning this is "doggy frisbee". Two people, each with a tug and a whistle. The dog bites one, and they play. Other person blows whistle, first person locks up, and whistle blower encourages dog to out from the first tug and come play with them. Once they are on the second tug and playing, the first person blows their whistle, etc. The idea is for the dog to just be going back and forth between the two people. Neither is a higher value reward, since both just have tugs, the value change is that one person is active and one is passive, depending on if the whistle has been blown yet. If the dog starts to anticipate, the person they should be playing with ups the attraction level while the person they outed early to head for either hides their tug or is otherwise boring. So the dog learns to not leave before the whistle, but leave quickly at the whistle.


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## Ang Cangiano (Mar 2, 2007)

First, sorry for the late reply on this post. How's the recall going?

In addition to the advice already given you might want to try putting her on a long line, put the decoy on the other side of her so she's in between you and the decoy, closer to the decoy side, and recall her, as soon as she's to you send her for the bite, no bite before the recall. Once she has this, have the decoy stand off to the side, but in the middle of you and her (sort of a triangle) and recall her past the decoy, no bite beforehand, as soon as she's back to you send her to the bite. Gradually move the decoy in closer to the line of recall, to the point where he is directly in line between you and her and she has to actually move out around him to do her recall. The decoy should be completely passive. The next step would be a bite, out, and short distance recall, still online. Keep the line on her until she's 100% solid in the recall or you'll have a dog that realizes she doesn't need to come back if she doesn't have a line on her.

When she's ready for a recall off a pursuit have the decoy stop as soon as you blow the whistle so there's no perceived fight until she's again 100% solid, then the decoy can continue the escape while you recall her. 

I used a very similar progression for one of my females, Beretta, and here's her first recall off a pursuit: http://liberatoreshepherds.com/video_clips.htm Scroll down to Beretta v. Guardianhaus 'standing recall' clips. The out command was given at a pretty large distance from the decoy to allow her to 'process' it, the recall command was given closer to the decoy. The decoy stood still at the out command. Not a suit though, just a sleeve here.

Ang


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Ang Cangiano said:


> First, sorry for the late reply on this post. How's the recall going?


The recall is going well. At training we tried having the decoy go limp and I tried to call her off without first asking her to ous. Well all she did was shake the decoy like a rag doll. 

So we put a long line on her and then gave her a small zing on the collar when she did not comply. All it took was one small correction and that was it. She returns to heel now reliably. We set up a triangle as well with 2 decoys with Tugs and she was reliable there as well. 

We have been working on the whistle every chance we can get, everytime she hears the whistle she zips right to heel and is looking for her reward. So that is a good thing! 

BTW Nice work with Beretta!


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Her recalls are getting better and better over the past few weeks. 

We have been using a Shutzhund sleeve on the recalls. In conjunction with a long line and a prong on the dead ring. I've had to use the prong though very sparingly at first to make her in tune to the whistle. Her outs are great just she still was hesitating when asked to leave the decoy. 

What we have been doing is giving her an initial work out on the suit especially if she has not done any real bite-work for a couple of days. For example we just let her have at it. Give her the rt leg out her, couche guard, then give her the lt leg over and over. We do this until her tongue is hitting the floor, almost takes about anywhere between 6-9 minutes then we put her up for awhile. 

When we bring her back out it seems that initial workout since it has drained some of her energy makes her a lot more focused on bite-work obedience. 

Still a work in progress but I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

It was interesting to read some of these responses from our Sch folks. One thing I was curious about, as I cannot see the vids with this stupid computer is why the eyes where on the inside. 

The decoy with the whistle was absolutely the most retarded thing I have ever heard of and I couldn't stop laughing to type. WOW. No wonder she was ignoreing you. The decoy is calling her to stay. HA HA.

You can clean up the hesitation with an e collar.

I am curious as to what type of foundation you had put on the dog to get her to be that sticky????


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Jeff Oehlsen said:


> It was interesting to read some of these responses from our Sch folks. One thing I was curious about, as I cannot see the vids with this stupid computer is why the eyes where on the inside.
> 
> The decoy with the whistle was absolutely the most retarded thing I have ever heard of and I couldn't stop laughing to type. WOW. No wonder she was ignoreing you. The decoy is calling her to stay. HA HA.
> 
> ...


Hmmm foundation. She has been only on the suit for a couple of months and only working with a decoy for about 6. Before that it was just me farting haphazardly around with toy tugs. All her bitework with the decoy has been a game that she'd win, it was all prey driven with no defense. We have only started to put OB into the bitework in the last month. She is 19 months now. 

The foundation that was put into the whistle recall was basic. We started off having her on a short lead and when her head was turned .. blow the whistle .. treat .. rinse and repeat. That got built up to a long line and graduated to a tug, basic stuff.

I hear you on the decoy with the whistle it worked ... like crap. 
The TD was saying it was to startle her, to me it just made her go "oh yeah you want to fight now?" Then she'd reengage, Ha-ha! 

As for the orientation of the eyes at this point I couldn't care less about it, as she is still getting comfortable in her grips. The problem I see with her is she goes in to 'hot' all the time that messes up her grips. If she has time to think such as being backtied or in the defense of handler exercise. It is not an issue. 

I know her bitework will suffer a little because we are asking more obedience and control of her. As she figures out the game and makes less errors I trust that she will automatically get more natural encouragment and her grips will improve. I'm not worried about her bitework at this stage of the game. It's more how we put the OB back into the bitework. 

I'd wanted to utilize an e-collar but our Club TD is anti e-collar. The TD really thinks that we don't need it in a traditional Ringsport training sense. Such as for dirty outs etc, he would only want to use it as a last resort. At this point her Ringsport doesn't need a lot of compulsion just refinements so the e-collar is redundant for that use. 

I also discussed with the TD why I would like to use it such as .. "what is the differance between pulling her off a decoy with a long line if she doesn't comply with a whistle command vs getting a Stimulation with an e-collar?" During Ring competition there is no collar, no prong, no nothing. It is just the decoy, dog and handler. So my point was I'd like to mix the different ways to train her up as we all know that a dog can get collar wise to any type of collar doesn't matter if it is a prong, e-collar or a piece of spaghetti ... the dog knows .. If the dog turns around and gives his/her handler the finger on the field because it doesn't have any collar or line on. Really what is the difference? You still fail the exercise ..

The TD said to me that he can tell when a Ring dog that has been trained with e-collar. He was saying the dog once it hears the command it is in panic to comply to beat the stimulation. Obviously those dogs he has seen have been trained with escape training techniques. I agree with him that I never want to use escape training techniques no matter how fast they can get results, you get a dog that IMHO works because it is forced too not because it wants to, big difference! 

Any ways that's that ...


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

I agree with both Jay and Chris. I agree with Chris for the reward bite to be in the recall position not sending the dog to the bite. I agree with Jay to have the decoy take a step or two backward, real slow. Then recall. The dog may see this movement as the ok to bite and if so don't do it. The step bakwards is to take the decoy out of the picture.(maybe)

Now I've gone and done it.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Jerry Lyda said:


> I agree with both Jay and Chris. I agree with Chris for the reward bite to be in the recall position not sending the dog to the bite. I agree with Jay to have the decoy take a step or two backward, real slow. Then recall. The dog may see this movement as the ok to bite and if so don't do it. The step bakwards is to take the decoy out of the picture.(maybe)


I don't think that is going to work without screwing up another exercise, the guard. Right now if the decoy shuffles back she is in a down in between his legs waiting for him to try to escape, she follows him if he moves. The nanosecond the decoy tries to esquive she is on him like a guided missile for the rebite. 

The last bite session worked well using the shutzhund sleeve on the recall at my end. We had to use some compulsion (leash pops) at first to get her an idea of the game we were playing. But the last few bites her recalls had no hesitation. 

I'll use the shutzhund sleeve again this weekend for the same exercise. What I hope to do it then take it down to a bite tug, then a recall tug and hopefully end it on a ball.


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

Geoff Empey said:


> As for the orientation of the eyes at this point I couldn't care less about it, as she is still getting comfortable in her grips. The problem I see with her is she goes in to 'hot' all the time that messes up her grips. If she has time to think such as being backtied or in the defense of handler exercise. It is not an issue.


I would make it an issue. The techniques she learns now, are going to be the ones she reverts to later if there is any stress, confusion, etc. And French Ring is nothing if not a technical sport. If she needs to be on a tire, bungy, etc to slow down her entries and give her and the decoy time to "sync up" so her entry is correct, then I'd use whatever tool worked. You can still work the grip, the out/guard or out/recall etc just don't forget to work the entry at the same time.



> I'd wanted to utilize an e-collar but our Club TD is anti e-collar. The TD really thinks that we don't need it in a traditional Ringsport training sense. Such as for dirty outs etc, he would only want to use it as a last resort.


I'm curious what he means by "in a traditional Ringsport training sense"? We use the e-collar for almost all the dogs in our club. We also use long lines, pinch collars, etc but the electric is one tool in the box. Some dogs work with only occasional stim, others work with more consistent stim. And some of them are very competitive dogs. Most of the people I know in France use the collar also in their training.

It's possible to train an FR dog without the collar, but every dog I'm aware of who is currently trialing at a competitive level in FR in the US is trained with a collar.


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

Quote: I agree with Jay to have the decoy take a step or two backward, real slow. Then recall.

This isn't bad thinking. Unfortunately, with a TD that is stupid enough to have the decoy blow the whistle to get the dog to come to you, I think this guy is in for a hell of a ride. 

The big thing that needs to be done is condition a response with the whistle, and I am sure that this has not been done. Buko and I where on a walk and a cop blew his whistle and Buko ran back to heel......same with videos. Same thing with the e-collar, you are just conditioning a response. No need to blast off on the dog.

One of the things that works pretty good with a sleeve is to take off running the other way.


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## Tim Martens (Mar 27, 2006)

Geoff Empey said:


> As she figures out the game and makes less errors I trust that she will automatically get more natural encouragment and her grips will improve. I'm not worried about her bitework at this stage of the game. It's more how we put the OB back into the bitework.


i don't agree with this. you have said that this is still pretty much the foundation stages of the bitework. to not worry about grips and thinking that you can address it later on, not only delays the problem, but also makes it much more difficult to correct as it will become ingrained by then. do it right the first time. if anything, slow down the control. if the grips aren't there, work on that first, then start with the control. dog training is like building a house, without a solid foundation, you constantly will have to take a patch work approach later on. 

it's much easier to teach the right way, then to get the dog to "un-learn" the wrong way.

edit: HAHA. just read page 3 where kadi says the same thing. oh well...


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Kadi Thingvall said:


> I would make it an issue. The techniques she learns now, are going to be the ones she reverts to later if there is any stress, confusion, etc. And French Ring is nothing if not a technical sport. If she needs to be on a tire, bungy, etc to slow down her entries and give her and the decoy time to "sync up" so her entry is correct, then I'd use whatever tool worked. You can still work the grip, the out/guard or out/recall etc just don't forget to work the entry at the same time.


True enough, being my first sport dog. I'm really trying to not miss any steps. That is a great idea about the bungee or tire. As that is her problem now is she just goes into the decoy always 'hot' the decoy as you say barely gets a chance to to "sync up" Thanks again for the ideas. 



Kadi Thingvall said:


> *I'm curious what he means by "in a traditional Ringsport training sense"? *


Meaning the TD wants us to administer any correction so that the dog knows it is coming from the handler not from the "e-collar or hand of god" so prongs, fursaver, body language, voice intonation only. The way he sees it if you are fair with the dog and use any collar the proper way(sparingly) it is not the collar that is training the dog but the handlers guidance. 

I agree with his philosophy. Though I still see the e-collar getting a bum rap 
for whatever his reason. Me like yourself would to just see it as another tool in the box. I hate tripping over long lines and seeing the dog tangled up in them for example.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Jeff Oehlsen said:


> The big thing that needs to be done is condition a response with the whistle, and I am sure that this has not been done. Buko and I where on a walk and a cop blew his whistle and Buko ran back to heel......same with videos. Same thing with the e-collar, you are just conditioning a response. No need to blast off on the dog.
> 
> One of the things that works pretty good with a sleeve is to take off running the other way.


Yeah that's what I have been doing is blowing the whistle and animating the sleeve by running and swinging it for her. 

As for the whistle conditioning. I do it every chance I get whenever she is in the house or backyard. I set it up to have a piece of hotdog ready to go and whistle her in. I just need more whistles in the house so I always have one handy as well as hotdogs in pockets!!! 

As well so that we have the same understanding is her whistle recall is quick and snappy ... my original question was proofing it when the decoy was present, that was the issue. 

I understand the e-collar and the conditioning a response with that too, but I've already gone over why I don't have that option now. Doesn't mean I can't use it on my own, just not at French Ring.


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## Kris Finison (Nov 26, 2007)

I will also agree with having a second decoy (or a tug, if it will work) for a back bite as a reward for a good recall.
We had a similar situation with a Mal recently - he would go go for another bite when recalled. Tried many degrees of corrections and eventually had to escalate to this level: Using a long line around his waist and dragging him back didn't work. We ended up having a long waist line and dragging a 6 foot leash on his correction collar. While fighting him, the decoy would grab the 6 foot leash. Dog was outted. If he went for another bite when recalled the long waist and collar lines were used simultaneously to "string him up" for a few seconds while handler told him "NO!" 
Only two times of this and he was (and still is) recalling off the decoy quite reliably. We also used a back bite as a reward for a good recall with this.

Another thing that we use fairly often when dogs are really amped up about working: when they mess up and go for a rebite they get corrected verbally (and physically if their level of experience deems them still being on leash) then they are immediately removed from the training area and put away in their crate where they can not see or hear any of it.


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Her recalls are now 150% better than what they were since I started this thread. We are not having to use compulsion at all now, though I might have to do a second blow on the whistle say 10% of the time. 

We used the sleeve on recall, went down to a grip building tug, and now to a small recall tug. Next to a orbee ball on a string. 

Kris we have removed her from the training area and put her up when she was screwing around, then brought her out later. She'd be perfect then! Funny how withholding reward has that affect on a dog that just wants to work!


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## Kris Finison (Nov 26, 2007)

Geoff Empey said:


> Her recalls are now 150% better than what they were since I started this thread. We are not having to use compulsion at all now, though I might have to do a second blow on the whistle say 10% of the time.
> 
> We used the sleeve on recall, went down to a grip building tug, and now to a small recall tug. Next to a orbee ball on a string.
> 
> Kris we have removed her from the training area and put her up when she was screwing around, then brought her out later. She'd be perfect then! Funny how withholding reward has that affect on a dog that just wants to work!


Great to hear there's no more negative compulsion needed to do it. 
Hopefully you can soon have that 10% to an even smaller percentage. Keep up the good work!
Yes, removing them from the work tends to get better results. It's such a simple solution and it's almost surprising how well it works at times. Glad to hear that it's all going well. :mrgreen:


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## Geoff Empey (Jan 8, 2008)

Kris Finison said:


> Great to hear there's no more negative compulsion needed to do it.
> Hopefully you can soon have that 10% to an even smaller percentage. Keep up the good work!
> Yes, removing them from the work tends to get better results. It's such a simple solution and it's almost surprising how well it works at times. Glad to hear that it's all going well. :mrgreen:


We have 6 weeks to tighten up the screws before the trial we are entered in. I am trying to add other weird distractions stuff that used to make her go bonkers when she was a pup. One is a Fisher Price Toddler toy one of those push toys with the popper with coloured balls she goes ape over that. She is recalling over that very reliably now, I thought she'd be hard to recall over that. But I think (keeping my fingers crosed) it is sinking in finally. 

Now that I'm proofing her. I'm running out of things that can distract her from the recall. Outside of catching a few squirrels or rabbits and letting them out in the backyard. I don't know what else I can use to try to take her off her game. \\/


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## Kris Finison (Nov 26, 2007)

\\/
It's nice when you get to that point, but it also can get frustrating as you know you're ALWAYS forgetting something to proof against. lol


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