# Leash break-in



## Chad Spicer (Nov 20, 2013)

What's the quickest and best way you've found to break in leather leash?
I typically tell people "just use it". I think that seems to be the best overall. But I'm looking for quick, that won't harm the leather or stitching. The reason being, I have a nice new tracking lead. I don't do a whole lot of tracking so the "just use it" method will take quite some time to get it nice and broken in. 
Opinions?


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## Matt Vandart (Nov 28, 2012)

ask horsey people they know all about leather


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## Sarah Platts (Jan 12, 2010)

I start by cleaning it. I saddle-soap (or glycerin soap) it down and then go back with a LIGHT coating of saddle oil. While the oil is still wet, I go down the length bending and kneading the leather. Don't wipe off any residual oil but put it aside for a couple of days. Then every time you are watching TV, drag it out and bend and work the leather for a week or so. Reapply any other leather conditioners you use as needed. Set it aside for a week or so, then repeat the bending and kneading. Wipe off any excessive oil residue. Do not store in plastic or any sack that can't breathe.


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## mel boschwitz (Apr 23, 2010)

Horseman's Honey. Great leather softener. Plus all the bending and kneading that Sarah describes.


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## Kevin Cyr (Dec 28, 2012)

Chad Spicer said:


> What's the quickest and best way you've found to break in leather leash?
> I typically tell people "just use it". I think that seems to be the best overall. But I'm looking for quick, that won't harm the leather or stitching. The reason being, I have a nice new tracking lead. I don't do a whole lot of tracking so the "just use it" method will take quite some time to get it nice and broken in.
> Opinions?


Honestly id get rid of it and get a nice amish saddle leather. Ive had same one for eight years and looks about same as day I bought it.

If its Ray Allen at all id definately get rid of it.


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## Chad Spicer (Nov 20, 2013)

Saddle soap was going to be the first step. But I've seen some leather conditioners over the years that I thought weakened the leather fibers. And seemed a little harsh on stitching. I'll give these suggestions a try. 
Kevin, it is in fact a handmade Amish leather tracking lead. Its super nice and I predict it will last me a very long time. All of the leashes we have come from them. Handwritten letters and the whole thing. Great leather. Great workmanship.

Sent from Petguide.com Free App


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## Sarah Platts (Jan 12, 2010)

went looking for the product that Mel mentions but I think this is what she means.

http://www.leatherhoney.com/buy-online/?gclid=CP_48KXJsL4CFeHm7AodeEMA5g

the reviews seem very positive. Will probably have to get some and give it a try.


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## rick smith (Dec 31, 2010)

just because it's "Amish" doesn't guarantee it's the best and highest quality for what you want to use it for
- amish use both latigo and harness leather - BIG difference
- some are burnished some aren't - another big diff
- cut edges vs burnished smoothed edges - ditto

if a leather product will not be used often, biothane can be a much better option due to the ease of maintenance, but first you have to find out what type biothane to get so u can match it to the operation (but it's a short easy learning curve)

re: leather goods for navy diving use (submerged in sea water under pressure, etc) 
- we ONLY used pure natural neatsfoot oil and our belts, harnesses and boots lasted 20 years plus
- i still use it but also use Black Rock (horse tack product)

of course there are lots of other more modern products out there

- bottom line for me - 
- i don't know what u mean by "break in", but any decent treatment will soften leather. take extra time to work it all the way thru and use it sparingly and it will work a lot better. get lazy, or use too much and it will mold up faster when stored on a shelf. get it wet and try and dry it too fast : same bad result
- i don't care for latigo because it is too soft and not as durable as harness leather, but others think it's the best thing going in leather. i think that is just because it is softer when it comes out of the box new.
- i still have harness leather leads that are over 10 years old that have been soaked and dragged in mud; they are all fine, soft and not cracking. the latigo stuff got too mushy and soft for my liking and were canned

but most of my gear now is the tacky soft biothane (can't remember the product number). i love that stuff cause the older i get the lazier i get

but it's all subjective and more than you probably wanted to read about


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## rick smith (Dec 31, 2010)

btw, someone suggested glycerin in another round of these threads. tried it and seems to work well too


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## jim stevens (Jan 30, 2012)

Buy some neatsfoot oil and soak the leash in a bucket of it if you want it soft from the start. You can take dried out leather strings that you can break apart with your fingers, soak them in oil, and the next day, you can't pull them apart anymore. A lot of neatsfoot compounds (not pure neatsfoot) has some glycerin in it, too.


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## Meg O'Donovan (Aug 20, 2012)

jim stevens said:


> Buy some neatsfoot oil and soak the leash in a bucket of it if you want it soft from the start. You can take dried out leather strings that you can break apart with your fingers, soak them in oil, and the next day, you can't pull them apart anymore. A lot of neatsfoot compounds (not pure neatsfoot) has some glycerin in it, too.


+1, but it needs time for the oil to absorb into the leather, as well as to dry. Don't do this without allowing yourself that time.


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## Rick Cadez Jr. (Dec 1, 2009)

When i first was issued all my leather k9 gear our trainer had a bucket of new motor oil that we dipped our leather in and let air dry for a day. The next day the leather was completly broken in, and has held up fine 5 yrs later.


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## Jay Quinn (Apr 1, 2012)

i use saddle soap to clean things and then some german stuff called Leder Balsam, it's all natural oils and waxes and has worked pretty well for me to keep my leather soft... i will also knead and bend a leash to break it in if it's too stiff...


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

When he was a kid my dad peddled produce from a horse drawn wagon. He swore by neatsfoot oil and still had some of the tack when he died 15 yrs ago. 
As a kid I always used neatsfoot oil for my Stan Musial ball glove. My grandson I still has the ball glove.


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## Chad Spicer (Nov 20, 2013)

I appreciate everyone's input. I was told to use neatsfoot oil before but had since forgotten the name. As I said, my theory has always been "use it". And of course the mess with it while you're sitting on the couch watching TV in the mean time. 
As for leather, it is a top quality piece. It should last me a VERY long time. The Amish that make our stuff for us really use top quality leather and use what we ask for and make what we want, the way we want it. I've got zero complaints there and zero concerns. I have a leash that I use for detection work that is so well broken in and soft that it might as well be made of gold because of the way I value it. But this leash is used daily. And it took time for it to get this way. This new tracking lead will most likely never be used as often. And although I'm sure it will someday reach "gold status" I am looking to speed the process just a skosh. But without harming the integrity of the leather or stitching.


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