# Teaching a "casual" heel



## Patrick Murray (Mar 27, 2006)

In teaching a dog to walk casually (loose leash) at my side I was taught the "method" of walking with the dog on lead and then abrubtly turning around and giving the dog a slight jerk if the dog surged. I'm guessing that's old school. 

Aside from teaching a formal heel, which I intend to do, what method would you recommend for teaching a casual heel? Thanks.


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## Alex Corral (Jul 10, 2007)

Hey Patrick, I'll tell you what worked for me. When I started loose leash walking, I'd carry treats with me and when my dog was in the right position, I'd click and reward (big clicker fan). I also started adding "slow" after she learned the position, but would still surge. When she'd drop back into position, I'd praise, reward, etc. After I knew she knew loose leash walking, when she'd surge, or would just get crazy, then I'd pop her prong and say "slow". She walks great on a leash now. That's just what worked for me.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

I just stop moving forward. The dog learns that it wont get where it wants to go if it keeps pressure on the leash. Calm "good boy" when it's walking calmly.
Caasual walk, for me, just means no tight leash. Doesn't matter which side the're on.


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## Patrick Cheatham (Apr 10, 2006)

For me I've used what both Bob and Alex have said. Treats when in the right position. Stopping when the dog surges with a slow command. Letting my dog hit the full length of the lead to start with then slowly not allowing a hugh surge. Now we can casually heel verrrrrrry slow if I want to.


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## Anne Vaini (Mar 15, 2007)

I've done the same as Alex and Bob suggested, with good results. here's one more way. 

My first choice for training this is training casual heeling out of recall. I decide how close to me I want the dog to be. When the dog gets that far, I recall the dog. Also, treats for the dog offering attention. I can apply this to more than just leash walking. I can keep my dog loose in the yard with me while I shovel snow (or yard work). It's very cool. Kinda slow. But fun.


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## Phil Dodson (Apr 4, 2006)

> Old School! Has worked on every dog I have owned. Some of us just can't change I guess.??


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## Dan Long (Jan 10, 2008)

I don't think changing direction is old school at all. At a pro positive training forum I read, that's the 1st method suggested when someone asks how to teach the dog to work on a loose lead.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Phil Dodson said:


> > Old School! Has worked on every dog I have owned. Some of us just can't change I guess.??


I'll never condem/knock "old school" because I spent many, many years doing it. Done correctly, it's still a good way to train dogs. I just chose a different direction for my goals and want folks to see other options for their tool box. 
If that dog comes along that needs a different aproach :twisted: I'll have no hesitation using it. ;-)


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## Katrina Kardiasmenos (Aug 5, 2007)

I've used the method that Bob uses with all of my dogs. All of my dogs know the formal attention heel, but when I just walk around my neighborhood, I don't need to have them doing that...

So, I would give them the release command from the attention heel, then as they walked forward, I'd praise them for "walk nice." That's the command I use for loose heels...


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## Kayce Cover (Oct 30, 2007)

I name "tight" by putting pressure on the lead and naming the sensation as the lead pulls tight, then "loose", naming loose as the lead slackens. I repeat two times each. 

Then I ask the dog to make tight, which he often does by apparent accident, mark/reward, then same with "loose". 

Then I name "walk". 

Then I ask for "loose walk" and use body language to prompt, bridging the instant the dog starts to move. 

Then I ask for "loose walk 2" and go for two instants, mark/reward, then loose walk 4. 

Whole process takes about two minutes.

In a single session, I will usually get a loose walk across the training hall. Next session, half a block, then one block, then 2 block lengths, then around the block, etc. (distance only, distractions to be added)

This is part of a new booklet. If any one wants details, please PM me.


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## J Ramanujam (Dec 30, 2007)

I do it the Cesar way man... 

Put that collar all the way up at the top of the head/neck, give the dog a 'let's go' and then work to wear the dog out, never letting them get ahead of you - I usually go biking/running, but it always depends on the dog. (By having the collar at the top of the head, you have total control of the dog's movement by leverage, as the force comes from the center of the chest)

After a consistent couple of days for the really headstrong dogs, they've got it down, and I can start loosening the collar. 

In the beginning, I'll feed them a little bit at the middle of a walk as it gives them a bit of motivation, and I always feed them at the end. When they get food directly from me, they get the picture that they have to heed or they'll not get anything until they do.

Beginning dogs I always feed only during/after outings so they really get the full picture, and not in the place that they will end up. I.E. - they get fed in the yard instead of the house. Little stuff like this will make a difference in the attitude of the dog when it comes to casual followership..

By the end of the week, most dogs, if you've been doing it right, giving them enough exercise and enough direction, are ready to go and the 'casual heeling' looks good (and they start looking nice and toned too, which is always a plus). 

It works really well. I'd definitely suggest it


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