# How to break a dog fight - ideas?



## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

What is important to know if your dog gets attacked by another dog or vice versa? As new to dog owning I would like to know about methods, approaches and attitudes to detect and defuse an impending dog fight. If it happens, I'd like to know how to break it up in a way that is as safe as possible to the handlers and the dogs.


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## Gillian Schuler (Apr 12, 2008)

I've been involved in quite a few over the years, mine, others, etc. and the worst things are when people flap, I find.

If they are males, and it happens whilst out walking, both dogs free, sometimes just walking in opposite directions and calling them can make them quit. Most often, males make a lot of noise but don't want to actually get hurt themselves. I've never had to separate two bitches. Sometimes a male and a female can have a scrap but it's usually not serious.

If it's a real fight, each owner pulling his dog's back legs can separate them. It has to be done simultaneously, otherwise the dog that is held can suffer more damage.

Hitting with sticks, shouting, going in between can be lethal.

I have two males and the moment they start, I call "out" and the older one leaves go of the other and I then walk between them and "glare". Afterwards the older one goes up and nudges the younger one as if to say "it never does to question my authority".


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Very helpful ideas Gillian, thank you. In the dog fights I've seen, the owners that remain calm and decisive have been the most successful. To bark at the dogs and hit them only seems to agitate them further and typically make it worse. Hopefully it is possible to work together with the other dog handler to break it up like you suggest, in the worst case.


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## Kristen Cabe (Mar 27, 2006)

I've used the 'grab the back legs and swing in a circle' method several times with success. If you are alone, you should always go for the aggressor.


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## tracey schneider (May 7, 2008)

Håkan Sterner said:


> Very helpful ideas Gillian, thank you. In the dog fights I've seen, the owners that remain calm and decisive have been the most successful. To bark at the dogs and hit them only seems to agitate them further and typically make it worse. Hopefully it is possible to work together with the other dog handler to break it up like you suggest, in the worst case.


 
I have actually had a dog charge me and my dog. I KNEW there was going to be a fight if he got close enough sooooooo........i did what any good dog owner would do........I stood in front of my dog and yelled NOOOOOOOOO at the other dog [-X ........I scared him enough to make him leave but I figured even house pets know the word NO lol.

If a fight breaks out, the best thing is cut off their breathing and make sure to remain very calm.......as you said it only aggitates them further. If the dog has a collar on, just put your palm in and twist......

t


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## Howard Gaines III (Dec 26, 2007)

Kristen Cabe said:


> I've used the 'grab the back legs and swing in a circle' method several times with success. If you are alone, you should always go for the aggressor.


Kristen too much work. Simple solution, drop a bitch which is in heat between them...that'll change things! \\/


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

tracey delin said:


> I have actually had a dog charge me and my dog. I KNEW there was going to be a fight if he got close enough sooooooo........i did what any good dog owner would do........I stood in front of my dog and yelled NOOOOOOOOO at the other dog [-X ........I scared him enough to make him leave but I figured even house pets know the word NO lol.
> 
> If a fight breaks out, the best thing is cut off their breathing and make sure to remain very calm.......as you said it only aggitates them further. If the dog has a collar on, just put your palm in and twist......
> 
> t


That's great Tracey, you knew where this was going and defused the situation. That's what I want to go for as first choice. Like you say, many dogs will understand your pose and intent and choose stay out of trouble. Some don't. 

To read the dog's signs is not very easy, especially for beginners like me. Some dogs wag their tails vigorously and yet attack the next second. You never know, at least I don't. Kirstens 'grab the back legs and swing in a circle' method seems like a good idea then if I'm alone, to the dog that is the aggressor. I guess if it would be a trained combat dog I would be in serious trouble but the chance I run into one of those is pretty slim overall.

If, God forbid, I end up on the ground battling a furious dog the choking could be a last resort. The idea must be to never get into that zone.


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## Kristen Cabe (Mar 27, 2006)

If you have ahold of the dog's back legs and are swinging the front of the dog around and away from the other dog (ie: imagine an invisible circle where you are the dot in the center and the dog represents the radius), you run very little risk of being bitten because the dog simply won't be able to physically maneuver itself around to get you. Having its rear legs held up off the ground throws it off balance, and the fact that you are keeping the front legs moving prevents it from being able to turn and bite you without flopping over on its side. What I have done when I've been alone was to swing the front of the dog away from the other dog, and continue to move the dog around me in a circular motion but also head towards something that would allow me to contain the dog somehow. Once you get the two dogs apart, the dog that you have the feet of usually comes down out of 'fight mode' and will allow you to grasp it by the collar and tie it to something or put it in a kennel or whatever. 

By 'the aggressor,' I mean the dog that started the fight or has the upper hand when you intervene. If you live in an area where there are lots of 'trained combat dogs' roaming loose, I don't think I'd recommend taking your dog for a walk at all. Get a treadmill! :lol:


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## Kristen Cabe (Mar 27, 2006)

Howard Gaines III said:


> Kristen too much work. Simple solution, drop a bitch which is in heat between them...that'll change things! \\/



Ha! Not if you're dealing with fighting bitches in the first place! 8-[


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

Your pups like ten seconds old dude, why all the concern over fighting????

I like to just avoid the situation. Works better that all the stuff I have seen, as pulling two dogs apart causes a lot of damage. I had a different method, but no ****ing way I am writing that down on the internet.


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## Konnie Hein (Jun 14, 2006)

Jeff Oehlsen said:


> Your pups like ten seconds old dude, why all the concern over fighting????
> 
> I like to just avoid the situation. Works better that all the stuff I have seen, as pulling two dogs apart causes a lot of damage. I had a different method, but no ****ing way I am writing that down on the internet.


It wasn't the method of putting a stick or a finger up the dog's rear, was it??? I could totally see you doing that!

Kidding!


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Thanks Kirsten, great description of the moves! I "think" I could do that if required... well that's a start isn't it :smile:

There are no vicious combat dogs around as far as I know so there is no need for that treadmill. Just want to be prepared that's all. I've seen some ridiculous "advice" to pop the eyes out of attacking dogs, have tear gas spray ready to use at all times... well that is not how I prefer to deal with potential problems like this. What I learned from this thread looks great.


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

I agree with Kristen, grab the back legs. Also a breaking stick is not a bad idea to have on hand if you know there are loose dogs in your area, or you have dogs who may fight. Some dogs will just grab and hold on, and picking up their back legs may or may not make them let go, but a breaking stick will allow you to pop them right off the other dog. If possible, ie the dogs are grabbing and holding vs slashing and dancing around, it's a good idea to get one tied off if possible before you break them up. Don't get in close though, or you risk getting bit. But if you have one tied off, then when you do get them apart it's much easier to drag the other one out of reach and then they are both under control. 

I will also spin the dog in a circle as I head for somewhere to secure it. You just better hope that if your loose dog attacks my dog while I'm out walking, that you are around to help secure it or there is somewhere I can do it on my own (fence, rope, I have an extra leash, etc) because otherwise my circle may just include something solid. I won't hurt it if I can avoid it, but at the same time I'm not risking getting bit or my dog being seriously injured because someone else can't bother to contain their dog.

If you are at home, the old garden hose trick does work. You can't just sprinkle the dogs with it though, you need to get it right up in their face and basically "flood" their eyes/nose/throat with it until they can't see and are coughing and hacking trying to breathe. That usually side tracks them just long enough to get one dog out of there. Even the most focused of fighters can't fight if they can't see or breathe. Unless they have already clamped on and just aren't letting go, then tie one of the dogs off to something, get that breaking stick I mentioned above, pry the other dog off and pull it away. Pepper spray will also work well, I used to carry that when I lived in OR, loose dogs were a real issue. Most only had to be sprayed once though before they would come charging out of their yard, see who it was, turn and leavel [-X :lol: Great little side effect, it works as an owner correction also as the dog heads home covered in pepper spray LOL

Don't try to just pull two fighting dogs apart, if they have a hold of each other you will just turn minor wounds into major wounds. You have to get them to let go before you seperate them.


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Jeff Oehlsen said:


> Your pups like ten seconds old dude, why all the concern over fighting????
> 
> I like to just avoid the situation. Works better that all the stuff I have seen, as pulling two dogs apart causes a lot of damage. I had a different method, but no ****ing way I am writing that down on the internet.



LOL! Yes you're right, our little one wouldn't hurt a fly. Only some mild vacuum cleaner aggression so far but I share that with her (... yeah, good girl.. get that damned Miele HARD!)

But seriously, there are some dog owners that like to keep their dogs unleashed and I have to have something up my sleeve to protect her at this point.


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## Jeff Oehlsen (Apr 7, 2006)

Quote: It wasn't the method of putting a stick or a finger up the dog's rear, was it??? I could totally see you doing that!

That works, but no it was something a bit more violent. Good dogs don't just let go.


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

Håkan Sterner said:


> But seriously, there are some dog owners that like to keep their dogs unleashed and I have to have something up my sleeve to protect her at this point.


I would carry a large/heavy stick or some pepper spray, and be ready to use either/both if another dog charges your pup. I would also walk her on a harness so you can get her "airborne" and into your arms at a moments notice if needed. You can do this on a collar also, but it's a little more comfortable (less dangerous for the pup) if they are on a harness. But your best defense is a solid and strong offense IMO.


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## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

Forgot to add, an FR style clatter stick can stop most pet dogs in their tracks. Big barrage, and a smack on the head if they keep on coming and most of them will decide they really didn't want to jump your dog and leave.


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## Michelle Reusser (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm such a bitch I haven't had to break up a dog fight in years.LOL Since I wa s kid I guess. I just don't let loose dogs get near my dog, I beat the crap out of them if they dare to venture close enough after yelling at them and giving them the evil eye. Wallop them with the end of your leash, foot in their ass, whatever it takes. 9 time out of 10 staring them down is all it takes. Just be very confident and hope like hell you don't have a "real" fighter on your hands. Chances are they are a big tit and will scurry on back the way they came. Breaking up a fight is allot harder than preventing one! I'm OK with me getting bit, I'll dive right in and choke the SOB if I have to, but he best stay off my dog or I'll kill him with my bare hands, if all of the above didn't warn him away first.

I find the bigger dogs don't go around picking fights, they come close enough, size up tyhe situation and deem it not worth the effort. It's the little ankle bitters that have no sense to stay clear, will charge right in and take a nip at my dog or me. A good boot solves that, save the pepper spray for the owner if they cry about their off leash mutt getting the boot from you. :-({|=


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Kadi Thingvall said:


> Forgot to add, an FR style clatter stick can stop most pet dogs in their tracks. Big barrage, and a smack on the head if they keep on coming and most of them will decide they really didn't want to jump your dog and leave.


Thanks Kadi, lots of great advice! Maybe pepper spray is not that unthinkable after all, and a breaker stick if you would get attacked by terriers. And/or a clatter stick, I mean what are the chances the attacking dog would be used to that. Now I just need to see if I can get acquainted with these tools myself... honestly I had to google a little to see what you meant...  I guess that water hose wouldn't be there when I need it.

Great suggestions!


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Michelle Kehoe said:


> I'm such a bitch I haven't had to break up a dog fight in years.LOL Since I wa s kid I guess. I just don't let loose dogs get near my dog, I beat the crap out of them if they dare to venture close enough after yelling at them and giving them the evil eye. Wallop them with the end of your leash, foot in their ass, whatever it takes. 9 time out of 10 staring them down is all it takes. Just be very confident and hope like hell you don't have a "real" fighter on your hands. Chances are they are a big tit and will scurry on back the way they came. Breaking up a fight is allot harder than preventing one! I'm OK with me getting bit, I'll dive right in and choke the SOB if I have to, but he best stay off my dog or I'll kill him with my bare hands, if all of the above didn't warn him away first.
> 
> I find the bigger dogs don't go around picking fights, they come close enough, size up tyhe situation and deem it not worth the effort. It's the little ankle bitters that have no sense to stay clear, will charge right in and take a nip at my dog or me. A good boot solves that, save the pepper spray for the owner if they cry about their off leash mutt getting the boot from you. :-({|=


That's the spirit! I'm totally with you. No dog is allowed to do any harm to my pup. Prevention is the key as you say. The other option would probably get me killed in action some day...

Not all dog owners are responsible.


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## Sara Findley (Feb 27, 2008)

Michelle Kehoe said:


> I'm such a bitch I haven't had to break up a dog fight in years.LOL Since I wa s kid I guess. I just don't let loose dogs get near my dog, I beat the crap out of them if they dare to venture close enough after yelling at them and giving them the evil eye. Wallop them with the end of your leash, foot in their ass, whatever it takes. 9 time out of 10 staring them down is all it takes. Just be very confident and hope like hell you don't have a "real" fighter on your hands. Chances are they are a big tit and will scurry on back the way they came. Breaking up a fight is allot harder than preventing one! I'm OK with me getting bit, I'll dive right in and choke the SOB if I have to, but he best stay off my dog or I'll kill him with my bare hands, if all of the above didn't warn him away first.
> 
> I find the bigger dogs don't go around picking fights, they come close enough, size up tyhe situation and deem it not worth the effort. It's the little ankle bitters that have no sense to stay clear, will charge right in and take a nip at my dog or me. A good boot solves that, save the pepper spray for the owner if they cry about their off leash mutt getting the boot from you. :-({|=


 Thats exactly me too.


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

To complicate things a little; my pup is allowed to play with other dogs, under supervision of course. I watch over my pup like a hawk to see that she is not misbehaving and is not getting bad experiences from other dogs. Unfortunately this "hawk" is an uninformed one, that doesn't know what to look for as being patently "bad dog behavior" from either party. This means this "hawk", that is myself, is next to useless in detecting potentially bad dogfight situations from occurring.

Let me give an example. My pup gets introduced to a much older dog, a little spaniel of about the same size as the pup. We thought they could get along and play a little. Wrong. The pup liked to play stuff that the older spaniel was totally uninterested of, like chasing and some wrestling, like she did with some tougher dogs before and liked a lot. She even tried to sneak up on the Spaniel, crawling on the ground towards her... nothing could get her to loosen up.

As I interpreted the situation the pup also attempted to dominate the little spaniel throughout the encounter, tried to "ride her", and the spaniel seemed to be put off and did what she could to ignore the stupid pup as she saw it. The situation defused itself as the pup withdraw to us, I guess she thought we were more fun in the end.

What would be the tell-tale signs of an impending dogfight here? It would be great to have some ideas on this as well! I'd like to prevent and do subtle interventions to defuse when it gets tense.


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## Anne Vaini (Mar 15, 2007)

It's not worth the risk. If you can't see it coming, don't allow your dog to interact with other dogs!


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Anne Vaini said:


> It's not worth the risk. If you can't see it coming, don't allow your dog to interact with other dogs!


It sounds like good advice. I didn't feel like I was in complete control of the more subtle aspects of the situation. Of course, I had her on a leash and could get her "beamed up" at any instant but then again, I think that dogs are dogs and need to play with other dogs. Not easy. She is in her "socialization phase" right now, the pup. 11 weeks or close to. The risks of doing this must be balanced to the risks of not doing it. Maybe I'm misinformed.


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## Michelle Reusser (Mar 29, 2008)

I agree with Anne. Your dog doesn't need to interact with anyone but you. My male wants to play with other dogs too but his idea of play isn't normally comfortable for the next dog. Once my dog has a fight, he will be dog aggressive the rest of his life. I can see it already and it's not worth the headache. I work with my dog around loose dogs all the time at the park. Seems at least 2 come along every week. I make my dog focus on me and ignore the other dog, he isn't allowed to play or act aggressive, just keep busy and stay neutral. If the stray looks like trouble I'll chase it off or leave myself. If he looks neutral I will use him to my advantage. I do the same with cats while out walking. You have to have a faster more allert eye than the dog, not terribly hard when they are young. You have to have your dog on leash and controlable and try to keep his attention on you before he breaks for the dog or cat. Once he breaks, you lost. If you do anything enough it becomes a learned behaviour, either running or focusing on you. I never let my male run after dogs or cats, now he is reliable off leash doing the same. If you let your puppy think it's OK to approach all new dogs, your just asking for a fight someday. He's gonna eventually approach the wrong dog. Train him to be neutral, bring out his favorite toy when another dog walks near and show him, you are more fun than that dog.


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2008)

Thank you Michelle and Annie, this is valuable input. It doesn't take much more that one bad encounter to get you a hell of a lot of trouble later on, I understand that. So far everything went very well but it doesn't mean it will stay on that course forever. Maybe I'm pushing our luck right now.


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## Kris Dow (Jun 15, 2008)

Håkan Sterner said:


> It sounds like good advice. I didn't feel like I was in complete control of the more subtle aspects of the situation. Of course, I had her on a leash and could get her "beamed up" at any instant but then again, I think that dogs are dogs and need to play with other dogs. Not easy. She is in her "socialization phase" right now, the pup. 11 weeks or close to. The risks of doing this must be balanced to the risks of not doing it. Maybe I'm misinformed.


I think that people mis-interpret the idea of "socialization" with puppies quite frequently. Yes, it is probably good for your pup to interact with other dogs IF you know how the other dogs will respond, but the FAR more important aspect of socializing a puppy is simply taking it around to a lot of different environments and introducing it to different people, and just getting it a good wide world-view, so that when it's older it doesn't freak out every time it sees a fire hydrant because it's never seen one before. (Note that the other people do not have to interact with your dog if that's what you prefer- just being around them and other distractions is enough.) It can also 'meet' other dogs in terms of being around them (maybe doing some basic OB work if the dog is advanced enough for some distractions) without actually playing.


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## jason farrish (Jul 18, 2008)

There were a couple of posters here who advised aggressive pro active prevention to which I wholeheartedly agree. 

Did you know in almost all states it is completely within your rights to kill any dog who threatens you or your livestock (ie your dog). The few times some dog came at us aggressively I stood between my dog and the offender and kicked it like a football. 

As to what should you do if the dogs are already fighting? Well any dog who is loose who attacks my dog has forfitted its right to live I agree with lifting it up by the back legs but in the heat of the moment I think I would be adding some soccer kicks to the belly. Not light ones but some real organ rupturing kicks with evil intentions. The offending dog will know shortly that its not fighting my dog its fighting my dog and me.

Now you may not be able to physically do these things which is where mechanical advantages come in, I like pepper spray or a gun, if you wail on it with a stick it can turn around and start attacking you chose something that is an instant fight ender, and remember have an offensive mindset and you can actually avoid some fights. I have stared down a few dogs before I had to get nasty with them, I think they were able to sense I was serious.

Anyway good luck


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

At your pups age, it's actually better for you if she doesn't play with other dogs. It creates a better bond between you. You especially don't want her to learn other dogs might be more fun than you at such an impressionable age. 

Also you said you are new at this, sometimes the differences between an aggressive dog and a very playful dog are so subtle that a dog you thought was friendly in an instant might bite your dog. 

Dog's don't need to make doggie friends, they just need good owners.


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## Guest (Jul 31, 2008)

Thanks a lot, Kris, Susan and Jason for your perspectives. Maybe I got the "socialization" thing wrong. The pup is definitely seeing a lot of different environments right now and I believe it is very important. The only thing I'm a little uncertain about is this "seeing other dogs" thing. It doesn't feel like I'm in complete control of these encounters. So far the outcome have been good but I will follow your advice. 

Jason, I can understand what you say, no problem. Dogs that make trouble should have no advantages of being treated with silky smooth gloves. I just hope I can have a chat with their owners if harsh methods are required, someone must have made the dog behave strangely and I think it is better to target the owner than the dog.

My strategy is to keep staying out of trouble of course, and your insights is of great help.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Having lived with multiple dogs for most of my life, and multiple terriers for a good part of that, I've never had a serious fight when I was present. 

This is for a very controlled situation such as a training class or a kennel.
When I taught OB classes we kept a beach towel in a tupperware container. The towel was damp (not wet) with water and amonia. The few fights I saw in the class room were easily handled by tossing the towel over the two dogs fighting. They broke up easily. 
You don't want a wet towel cause it could drip/run into the dog's eyes. 
I might add that reaching in and grabbing a collar to choke a dog out will get you bit if the dog's are seriously going at it. 
Two people on the back legs of both dogs is the ideal situation. Even then their timing better be right on.


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## Greg Leavitt (Aug 31, 2006)

Howard Gaines III said:


> Kristen too much work. Simple solution, drop a bitch which is in heat between them...that'll change things! \\/



I used to keep a bitch in heat in my back pocket fpr just such an occassion, but got tired of constantly being mounted.


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## Anna Kasho (Jan 16, 2008)

The very last time I had to break up a bitch fight with my two, I had to do it alone and had no leash or anything handy... I grabbed Inka by the collar and lifted her up and as soon as Candy let go to rebite I commanded "back up" and she did. I only did this because I know my dogs, so I DO NOT recommend trying it yourself! With different dogs, I'd probably have some serious bites! Inka was kicking and screaming and doing her best to bite me, but I was able to hold her so she couldn't twist around. Candy's style of fighting is to move fast, bite and re-bite, and avoid getting bitten herself. And since she's my best trained dog, I knew she'd listen once I had the other dog under control...

After that I started seriously training them to avoid fights, and last time they accidentaly got together, they each went to the place I trained them to go when they saw eachother... It's a safety measure, not a solution to the fighing issue, though. I can walk them together, I can have them out at the same time if I'm teling them both what to do, but of course they still hate each other. I don't think that is going to change.


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## Anne Vaini (Mar 15, 2007)

Socialize with no interaction. It's powerful stuff.

I have a game-bred APBT. The potential for aggression directed towards other animals is very high. The breeder told me that many pups come back for attacking other animals.

I socialized her with no interaction. She's about 15 months old. I had her out the dog park here last week. She can lie down on her side, with her head on the ground and be totally still and RELAXED while other dogs come up and sniff her. She ignores other dogs and CHOOSES to interact with me rather than with other dogs or people.

When she was younger and I was training her more consistently, I practiced call-offs. I'd allow her freedom (while at the dog park) allow her to begin to move toward another dog, then recall her. Now she sees other dogs and she CHOOSES to come to heel rather than attempt to interact with the other dog.

Dogs need to learn to be polite and civil with other dogs. Being neutral is the only absolute way to do this. It will further any other training goals you may have and ensure that your dog will be safe with other dogs.

Do not try to socialize your dog with a "friendly" dog. Look for a dog that doesn't try to interact with your dog. Then teach your pup that it is more fun to play with YOU than to play with the other dog.


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## Kyle Sprag (Jan 10, 2008)

Bob Scott said:


> Having lived with multiple dogs for most of my life, and multiple terriers for a good part of that, I've never had a serious fight when I was present.
> 
> This is for a very controlled situation such as a training class or a kennel.
> When I taught OB classes we kept a beach towel in a tupperware container. The towel was damp (not wet) with water and amonia. The few fights I saw in the class room were easily handled by tossing the towel over the two dogs fighting. They broke up easily.
> ...


 
That's interesting, I just had a conversation the other night about the damp towell thing. The person was asking me If I could get her some smelling saltz from the hospital. (amonia)

I can't remember where she said she read an article about this, maybe Steven Lynsey (sp) but not sure.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Kyle Sprag said:


> That's interesting, I just had a conversation the other night about the damp towell thing. The person was asking me If I could get her some smelling saltz from the hospital. (amonia)
> 
> I can't remember where she said she read an article about this, maybe Steven Lynsey (sp) but not sure.


 
Not sure when I first heard that but it was before Lynsey. I used this method in the early 80s. S. Lynsey is one of the "newcommers" in my list of dog books. Good Stuff! All three volumes!
The smelling saltz would probably work. I just don't wanna be holding it under a fighting dog's nose though.  :wink:


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## Dan Long (Jan 10, 2008)

I've heard the grab the back legs thing before. Never had to use it but it seems effective. If a situation occurred and I was the only one around, I'd be grabbing the other dog's legs and administering some of my own justice if it was the aggressor. 

I've had ankle biters rush at Gunnar and I when we are out for a walk. Luckily they didn't get too close, I was poised to drop kick them over the goal post. I don't want my dog killing them because even though he's the one walking under control on a leash and the ankle biters came running from 50 yards away while their owner did nothing, he'd be the one in trouble.


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## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

I had to deal with this just yesterday. Major fights typically only seem to happen when I am gone, although they are typically not common (maybe once every 5-6 months, always involving Zoso). :roll: I was on a business trip for 3 days and when I came home, my husband and his father were working on some project outside. The dogs were all very excited to see me and hadn't been taken out for a good run in 3-4 days (main number one problem, no doubt!!). I was going to let them each on the tie out for a minute for a potty break. I was letting Dolly the Rottweiler (the foster dog we've had for 3 weeks) back in and she was very excited and barking. Unbeknownst to me, apparently her and Zoso my male got into a fight the day before yesterday. Something about her barking over enthusiastically and play bowing at him, which he didn't like. He was able to pull Zoso off her by his back legs. 

He didn't tell me about this, but I let her back in the house and Zoso charged her again. I called for help from my husband and my father in law, but they didn't hear me because they were working outside with the power drill, so I was left by myself. :x I dropped the tie out cable on the ground so it would be nearby when I needed it. She was closest to me so I tried pulling her off by the back legs first, but as he was not letting go, it didn't help much. I switched to Zoso's back legs, but she had gotten a good hold of his ear even though she was on the ground on her back screaming since he had a good hold of her neck. I had him pulled mostly back, and I didn't have a leash in hand but I had one nearby, so against my better judgment, I was able to grab his collar so I could reach for the leash. Sure enough, he nailed me right in the stomach right as I was pulling him off. 










You can see a small puncture mark right below the navel along with the bruising. That oozed a drop or two of blood. 

So, the lesson is, be really careful! For being by myself, I did about everything right except the last bit. Next time, I'd have a leash in hand first instead of having one 5 feet away on the ground. And more importantly, better exercised dogs!!! As goofy as Zoso can be, he is a surprisingly good fighter, even though the other dogs he's gotten into a serious fight with have usually outweighed him (Dolly, even though she's a submissive dog in general, outweighs him by 15-20 lbs).


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## susan tuck (Mar 28, 2006)

Oh ouch, Maren! Talk about adding injury to insult. Hope you get better soon.


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## Maren Bell Jones (Jun 7, 2006)

Thanks Susan. I bruise easily, so everything looks much than it is. I'm sure if I tried the collar grabbing method earlier on, could have been much worse. Breaking up dog fights certainly has its dangers, even when done correctly.


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## Guest (Aug 2, 2008)

It sounds like you had quite a fight there, Maren. Glad it turned out as well as it did after all and that your injuries heal fast. Your incident demonstrates the risks even if you are very experienced, this is helpful.

The ideas of having this ammonia rag handy seems like a good idea, at least for people like me that are a little uncertain about how to intervene effectively by force. I was also thinking of these assault alarms that emit an extremely loud noise by means of compressed gas and a little horn, anyone tried that as a "time out signal"? Maybe it just makes the dogs even more furious.


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## Kris Dow (Jun 15, 2008)

Dan Long said:


> I've heard the grab the back legs thing before. Never had to use it but it seems effective. If a situation occurred and I was the only one around, I'd be grabbing the other dog's legs and administering some of my own justice if it was the aggressor.
> 
> I've had ankle biters rush at Gunnar and I when we are out for a walk. Luckily they didn't get too close, I was poised to drop kick them over the goal post. I don't want my dog killing them because even though he's the one walking under control on a leash and the ankle biters came running from 50 yards away while their owner did nothing, he'd be the one in trouble.


That's probably what I worry about most with my dogs- neither of them are huge, heck, the cocker is practically ankle biter size herself, but if anything is going to make the cocker say 'I've had it' and bite, it's being attacked by some stupid little dog who never learned manners. (To say nothing of the larger dog, who is big enough that even trying to just drive a small dog off he could do major damage if he got the wrong bit of dog. And he has Rotti markings, so I'm SURE somehow between the incident and the vet, the story would develop so that he was the slavering evil beast.)

I hate people who justify their dogs having no manners at all by pointing at the size of the dog.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

A garden hose in the face, on high pressure can "sometimes" break up a dog fight if the combatants aren't really going for broke. Usually will work for the average house dog.


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