# Teaching The Focus



## Jose' Abril (Dec 6, 2007)

I watched the Ivan Balabanov's Obed. DVD yesterday and I thought it was quite interesting.I was wondering if any of you guys/gals use or have used his method of Focus Work?? 
Do you think it is better to use toys or food to teach focus work???

Do you think toys or food will lead to forging or lagging back as your dog progresses??


----------



## Chris Wild (Jan 30, 2008)

What we use is similar to Balabanov's method in the sense that we teach the dog to look at US, not be looking for a toy. Many other methods of teaching focus (Flinks comes to mind) rely on getting the dog to focus on a toy, and then gradually moving the toy out of sight. But the dog is always looking for the toy, and that leads to needing gimmicks (training vests, patting the chest when the judge isn't looking, etc...) to keep the dog thinking the toy is always there.

I prefer to teach the dog to look to ME, and away from the reward, and that will earn him the reward. Doesn't matter where the reward is. If it's in my back pocket, or sitting on the sidelines of the field, or back in the car, it doesn't matter to the dog. That way I don't have to try to trick him into thinking I have one and to be looking for it, and I don't have to deal with the potential fallout in trial if he figures out I don't have one.

To illustrate. This is me and my young female, Della. Note where the toy is, and then note where her focus is. 










We do the initial training with food, then move onto toys when the dog is ready. Food allows for more repetitions, more reward without having to take breaks to play, and puts the dog in a calmer state of drive more conducive to learning. Then the toy is added later to increase drive, intensity and length of time the dog can work between rewards.



Jose' Abril said:


> Do you think toys or food will lead to forging or lagging back as your dog progresses??


Toys and food don't lead to those things. A lack of the dog understanding of correct position, improperly timed rewards, and other training faults lead to those things.

The key with motivational training is there is no "close enough". It's either right, and earns reward, or wrong, and doesn't earn reward. If the dog is rewarded for being out of position, they'll learn to be out of position. If the dog is only rewarded when in correct position, they'll learn to maintain correct position.


----------



## Daniel Cox (Apr 17, 2006)

Chris Wild said:


> What we use is similar to Balabanov's method in the sense that we teach the dog to look at US, not be looking for a toy. Many other methods of teaching focus (Flinks comes to mind) rely on getting the dog to focus on a toy, and then gradually moving the toy out of sight. But the dog is always looking for the toy, and that leads to needing gimmicks (training vests, patting the chest when the judge isn't looking, etc...) to keep the dog thinking the toy is always there.
> 
> I prefer to teach the dog to look to ME, and away from the reward, and that will earn him the reward. Doesn't matter where the reward is. If it's in my back pocket, or sitting on the sidelines of the field, or back in the car, it doesn't matter to the dog. That way I don't have to try to trick him into thinking I have one and to be looking for it, and I don't have to deal with the potential fallout in trial if he figures out I don't have one.
> 
> ...


I could have not said it better myself. This is the best way IMHO.


----------



## Trish Campbell (Nov 28, 2006)

Also, start in a stationary position and don't even start any steps until the dog is 100%. The be prepared to feel like he loses it a bit when you add steps...go slow-you may start with 1 step, reward for that watch, then add a few more. More time consuming, but so worth it in the end. Think it's one of the hardest things we ask our dogs to do-so many behaviors at once, they have to watch, stay in correct position, make turns, add distractions, etc.

Edited to add, with a young dog-thought you had a pup, keep it short and sweet, fun. Let the dog set the pace...


----------



## Lacey Vessell (Nov 18, 2006)

Great explanation Chris! Great pictures to illustrate as well.....I've had pretty good success using Ivan's methods concerning focus....as someone already stated you just have to go slow and at the dog or pup's pace. IMO his method does not cause the forging or lagging due the "bridge" (saying "good") and "terminal" (saying "okay")reinforcement. The dogs learn fairly quickly (as long as you are consistent) that they do not get a reward unless they remain focused and in proper position AND ONLY when they receive the terminal "release".


----------



## Chris Wild (Jan 30, 2008)

Yes, it's very important to go slow. As Trish mentioned, 1 or 2 steps to start when it comes to heeling.

In all aspects of training, I like to break exercises down into their smallest individual components and only start putting those components together when the dog fully understands each one separately. So I teach heel position separate from focus, and only put the 2 together when the dog is proficient at both. Actually, once the dog understands focus, I incorporate it into all the exercises the dog knows where focus is appropriate ... sit, heel, down, recall, presenting the dumbbell in front on the retrive.... and release only comes when he's doing the exercise correctly and with focus.


----------



## Kadi Thingvall (Jan 22, 2007)

This is how I teach the basic focus. I prefer to start with food because it's a fast reward then we keep right on working, were as with a toy you have to stop, play, get the toy back, get back into position, then start working. Later when the dog has a solid understanding of what we are doing I progress to a toy.

http://www.dantero.com/focus.php


----------



## Gary Garner (Jun 30, 2007)

I find the toy works best...(but of course it depends on the individual dog)...

Also varying the exact time of the reward is good...leaving the dog doubting, wondering or guessing when it might appear...

Although not brilliant..there's some focus work in this video clip of Xena....


----------



## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

I would stress how inmportant your's and the dog's position are when you give the maker. When I get the dog's eye contact I make sure I'm straight forward and I LOOK straight ahead before I give the marker. That's the pic I want the dog to see. 
If your shoulders are turned and your looking down at the dog when you mark, THAT"S the pic he sees. Then in competition he wants to see that same pic and he starts getting out ahead to get your eye contact. In foosing I look at the ground 5-6 paces ahead of me. That's the position I like to be in when I mark. I can see the dog with my peripheral vision.
When you start moving, don't forget to randomly mark while the dog is foosing also. To many mark and reward only when they come to a halt. That marks only for that halt/sit. The dog has to know that the moving position is also correct. THAT'S what keeps the dog from forging of lagging.


----------



## Trish Campbell (Nov 28, 2006)

Plus your body position when you reward with the toy can bring the dog out of position..you maybe unwittingly rewarding incorrect position by bringing the toy out and rewarding the dog when he is anticipating and then forges or cuts across you to get the toy-get that sideways crab heeling going on.


----------



## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Trish Campbell said:


> Plus your body position when you reward with the toy can bring the dog out of position..you maybe unwittingly rewarding incorrect position by bringing the toy out and rewarding the dog when he is anticipating and then forges or cuts across you to get the toy-get that sideways crab heeling going on.


That's why I love using marker/ckicker. I wont mark till my shoulders and face are forward. Once I mark I don't care if the dog breaks position. That exercise is finished! Reaching for the reward before the marker WILL cause the dog to break position. We call that gunslinging in our club.
Timming, timming, timming! It doesn't matter if your training with food or a big club in your hand........OR, food in one hand and the club in the other. :lol:


----------



## Donna Rednour (Feb 12, 2008)

Excellent posts! Nice picture Chris. 
Bob, I agree, and so many people, I included, reach for that toy or move to the food with the mark. I improved last summer when after I broke my leg and I was starting to get around pretty good, I couldn't move that well to give the mark, reach for or move the toy for GREAT fear of the dog getting over anxious and knocking me down. Once they bit the toy then I could give them a good play session. Helped a lot in them understanding to initate the game when I presented the toy too.
I won't give out my tips on how to use crutches in training tho'


----------



## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Donna said;
"I won't give out my tips on how to use crutches in training tho':razz:"

Those are for the correctional phase, right?! :lol: 
Just jkn because I don't use any corrections. :grin:


----------



## Sharon Adams (Nov 6, 2007)

Kadi Thingvall said:


> This is how I teach the basic focus. I prefer to start with food because it's a fast reward then we keep right on working, were as with a toy you have to stop, play, get the toy back, get back into position, then start working. Later when the dog has a solid understanding of what we are doing I progress to a toy.
> 
> http://www.dantero.com/focus.php


I can't believe you were taught that over the phone, nice work!


----------



## Donna Rednour (Feb 12, 2008)

Bob Scott said:


> Donna said;
> "I won't give out my tips on how to use crutches in training tho':razz:"
> 
> Those are for the correctional phase, right?! :lol:
> Just jkn because I don't use any corrections. :grin:


Nope... guess again Bob!


----------

