# Training the send out



## Michelle Reusser (Mar 29, 2008)

I have never done it and I don't need to in my sport but I'm bored and want to teach him something new. Where should I start?


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## marcy bukkit (Oct 4, 2007)

There are a lot of ways to start -- here's how I do it ~

Start by having the dog sit next to you. Leave him on a stay and walk out 3-4 feet and drop a toy on the ground -- next to a post or a tree - something identifiable. I use the same target initially to train the concept, then start introducing new targets, then no target.

Return to heel position and tell the dog "run"...or whatever...if you want, you can add a hand signal - arm straight, hand straight, palm facing away from the dog, making a line from the elbow to the toy - then wait for the dog to look in that direction before sending him.

The dogs I've trained go right away, but you might repeat the word a couple times. They don't know what else to do on that word, and they pretty much treat it as a release word.

I then gradually increase the distance by moving the dog's starting position further away. I also will start hiding the toy and dropping it when he's not watching me drop it (or have a helper place it). Then I start going to other targets and other locations.

When he's doing well with several different locations and a considerable distance, I start asking for a sit or a down as he gets closer to the target. (By then he also has a good idea of a random sit and a random down.)


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## Michelle Reusser (Mar 29, 2008)

That seems simple enough.


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## Chris Michalek (Feb 13, 2008)

I've taught it two different ways. Most recently, I took a half microphone stand (any thin pipe will do). I was using this method to teach him how to run blinds. I put him in front of the stand, gave the command and made him go around, then I would increase the distance. Then I started using different objects to the point that it doesn't matter what I point at...he will run around it. Distance no longer matters and now I point off in the distance and he tries to run around whatever he thinks I'm pointing at. He never get's there because I tell him to platz before he makes his make.

The other way I did it with my other dog was using her food dish. I point and give the command and she runs to it. Then I increased the distance. Then I would put it out of sight and change up the locations so she knows to run in the direction I'm pointing. Then I started making her platz before she got to the dish.

Off the two, the food dish method shows me a faster dog but it could just be the differences between the dogs. The pole in the ground method is more useful, blinds were nothing to him because he knows to run around whatever I point at.


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Pretty much the same as Marcy for the send out. Be sure you initially add distance AWAY from the original spot until the dog understands what your doing. When you later put the article in a new spot, shorten up on the distance until the dog understands what you want facing this new direction.
Another idea is the AKC and/or duck dog style of directional retrieve. If the retrieve is good put articles (gloves for AKC, retrieving bumpers for duck dogs) in a circle around you. First at 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock. With the dog sitting at heel, give a "foose" command and turn towards the atricle to be retrieved. Send the dog. Add distance (larger circle) and articles to the circle as the dog gets better.


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## Jerry Lyda (Apr 4, 2006)

I do it pretty much the same for the short distance but I use a toy. A toy that the dog LOVES and will ONLY see during this excersise. I send the dog with verbal and hand motion to the toy. He will take it and he will turn to me and look at me and I turn and call him as I'm running away towards the truck. I give him all the motivational cammands at this time and tell him to saddle up. ( that's his command to get in the truck) This is the last excersise I do before putting him up. He will learn that when this is over he is finished. This makes him fast to the toy and excited when he gets it. I train the platz seperate from this. I may have him platz once in a blue moon, which means very seldom,very seldom. I don't want to have him think that I'm going to have him platz in training. before trial I MAY have him do it once just to proof after that 10 more times with no platz. I hate to see dogs that look over their shoulder expecting the platz. We trialed in Charlotte N.C. and the ground was frozen. When I gave the command to platz he brought dust from the ground as he slid to a platz. He always stayed focused looking straight ahead to where the toy should be. Can't beat motovational training with this.


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## tracey schneider (May 7, 2008)

Great topic as this is one I struggled with more so because of early mistakes and creating conflict. It took me a long time before I FULLY trusted he would do it in a trial. Im going to be doing things a little different with my current dog in hopes of a cleaner better picture. I do almost exactly like the previous post. With that method I did run into ONE problem and that was during a trial, if we were first up, he wasn’t “with me” on the heel to the long down, in his mind he was finished. So I started adding some random heeling in at this point mixed in with Frisbee or two ball just so he understands obedience can come in at any time. I also never platz him in training the send out. I do however platz him at a distance many times over while playing two ball/ frisbee. In one particular instance my trial nerves got the best of me and I lost my temper and did some stupid things. You could say force was used, but he had an outstanding send out at the trial a two days later J
t


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## Bob Scott (Mar 30, 2006)

Tracy, your doing the right thing by adding random heeling, toys, etc on your heel to the long down. You might mark and reward after just one or two steps. For doing a nice about turn on the way over. For doing a nice sit on a halt. Sometimes reward with food, sometimes with a Blevel reward, sometimes with that great and wonderful "whatever". Always keep the dog wondering when/what the next reward is comming. 
We call that slot machine training. 
If you get a nickel after every pull on the slot machine's arm, it will soon get boreing. If you go 4-5-6-10-50 pulls without getting anything but KNOW that something great will happen eventually, you keep trying. Same with the dog. That reward WILL come! Random timing and random values with the reward.


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